Lot 108. An Art Deco Burmese ruby and diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1940. Estimate US$ 300,000 - 500,000 (€ 260,000 - 430,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018
of geometric openwork design, centering three rectangular-shaped emerald-cut rubies, measuring approximately 13.8 x 13.0 x 6.4mm to 3.4 x 3.1 x 2.1mm, flanked by half-moon-shaped diamonds, weighing 1.86, 1.89, 2.91 and 2.79 carats, set throughout with baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds, accented by calibré-cut rubies; signed VCA NY, no.45306 and no.4579; accompanied by a signed box; estimated remaining diamond weight: 31.20 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 7in.
Note: Van Cleef and Arpels opened at Place Vendome in Paris in 1906 and quickly gained notoriety, amongst royalty and high society alike, as leaders in innovation and design. In 1942 they opened their first store in New York; with the outbreak of World War II, it was a welcomed opportunity.
The Maison established themselves in New York by building relationships with the finest craftsman in the city and began manufacturing jewels in the French style for the American esthetic. This dramatic ruby and diamond bracelet is an exceptional example of the jewelry produced by the Van Cleef and Arpels, New York branch, during this period.
Sylvie Raulet, "Van Cleef & Arpels", Paris, 1986 (page 171)