Lot 107. An Art Moderne diamond clip, Paul Flato, with accompanying fitted bangle, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1935. Estimate US$ 60,000 - 80,000 (€ 51,000 - 69,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018
the clip of starfish motif, centrally set with a cluster of round brilliant-cut diamonds, framed by baguette-cut diamonds, to articulated pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamond rays; clip unsigned; bangle signed Van Cleef and Arpels N.Y, no.9541; bangle accompanied by a signed fitted box; estimated total diamond weight: 26.90 carats; mounted in platinum; brooch width: 2 1/4in.; bangle circumference: 7in..
Note: Born in Shiner, Texas to German immigrant parents at the turn of the century, Paul Flato was Hollywood's first "jeweler to the stars" and is considered to be one of the most sought after American jewelers of the 21st century. Charismatic and eager, Flato began by selling engagement rings to his college friends and, in just a few short years, built a flourishing business. In 1939 he befriended an unknown diamond dealer named Harry Winston and designed a necklace for the 125.65 carat Jonker Diamond. Around that same time, Flato opened a boutique on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood, and the starlets came flocking. Gloria Swanson, Ginger Rogers, Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Merle Oberon and every major actress of the time wore his jewelry, and frequently while on film.
Often unsigned, Flato's wildly oversized, three dimensional designs with scrolls and foliate details are easily recognizable. Lot 107 is a superb example of his style of work. The starfish clip can be worn alone or attached to the custom made hinged bracelet by Van Cleef and Arpels, New York.
Literature: Elizabeth Irvine Bray, "Paul Flato Jeweler to the Stars", China, 2010 (page 42).