Golden Fleece (Rubin garnish), Dinglingerhaus, workshop of Johann Melchior (jeweler), Dresden, 1722. Green Vault. VIII 122; three great Balasrubies, 70 diamonds, gold, enamel, silver gilt; 17.9 x 9.5 cm© Dresden State Art Collections
The jewels of secular knights made from the most exclusive jewelry princely clothes. One of the oldest and most respected, the Order of the Golden Fleece, was exclusively Catholic princes reserved. Founded in 1430 by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, the toison d'or has been since the early 16th Century to the highest honors of the house of Habsburg, the dignity of the Sovereign Order had fallen to the Burgundian inheritance. The religious character of each knight had to be returned after the death of the religious office. When the Ordensinsignie served a golden jewel in the shape of a ram's coat that was worn on the Order chain around his neck.Collar of the chain or consisted of iron and fire flaming fire stones. The symbols are derived from the Argonauts ago, which tells of the conquest of the famous golden fleece by a group of fearless heroes. August the Strong was since 1697, introduced the year of his election as the second king of Wettin, Duke George to the list of knights. In fact, it was not until 1722 at the same time with his son Frederick Augustus II the insignia of the Order on behalf of the Emperor Charles VI.presented. The emperor granted the Saxon Majesties the privilege to be Knight of the Order of the Golden Fleece, and at the same time to project their own Polish White Eagle Order. The gem of the Golden Fleece, the ruby set was one of the first of many jeweled treasures, of which eleven are still in the Green Vault. The Order is attributed to Johann Melchior Dinglingerhaus who had three unusually large Balasrubine used in the main components. This triad of outstanding principal stones became the ideal of a magnificent fleece Order. Seventy medium sized diamonds also contribute to the coveted Badge of the Order of the Catholic world radiates a great treasure.
Coat button (Ruby garnish). Dinglingerhaus, workshop of Johann Melchior (jeweler), Dresden, before 1719. Green Vault. VIII, 111/1 - III, 111/10; a Balasruby and 14 diamonds, gold, silver, partly gilt; Dm 2.1 cm © Dresden State Art Collections
West knob (Ruby garnish), Dinglingerhaus, workshop of Johann Melchior (jeweler), Dresden, before 1719. Green Vault. VIII, 110/1 - VIII, 110/10 - VIII, 111/11 - VIII, 110/12. Each, a Balasruby and 14 diamonds, gold, silver, partially gilded. Dm 1.7 cm© Dresden State Art Collections
Precious buttons were the princes of the late Baroque and Rococo as little robe closure, but adorned mainly as sparkling trim sleeves, pockets and braids. The representative effect jeweled buttons deliver contemporary descriptions of royal appearances and also the presentation of the 18th European princes Century. For most of August the Strong jewel sets were, as the inventory of 1719 shows three dozen rock knobs and also some three dozen smaller Camisohl or waistcoat buttons. Only the ruby set in it made an exception, because for them only two dozen waistcoat buttons were recorded initially. A well created by Johann Melchior Dinglingerhaus Rubin is already set for the coronation of Augustus the Strong, King of Poland in 1697 demonstrated.Whether, when and to what extent their rock and waistcoat buttons were replaced by the still existing today, is not known. After 1719, the garment buttons were increased by a further dozen or so that they could be used by the Elector-King and his son at the same time. The still existing stock is one of the oldest parts of the ruby set. The skirt and waistcoat buttons vary in size, but not in their form or their stocking each with 14 small diamonds. The center of the button takes a Balasrubin (spinel), which was backed by a red-colored foil. Very typical of early resulting buttons is that the center pieces can be quite different in size, shape and cut. The rubies are the buttons to increase their color effect, set in gold. By thin copper wires were attached to the button bodies. The diamonds on the other hand have the usual silver setting for diamonds. Even the bottoms of the buttons are ornamentally decorated and have an eye with the help of the button was sewn on the garment selected.
Jewel of the Polish White Eagle Order (Ruby garnish), Jordan, Johann August (jeweler), Dresden, 1744. Green Vault. VIII 123. 16 rubies, 480 diamonds, gold, silver, partially gilt, enamel; 10.2 x 7.8 cm© Dresden State Art Collections
Knee buckle (Rubin garnish), Dinglingerhaus, workshop of Johann Melchior (jeweler), Dresden, before 1719. Green Vault. VIII 107 a - VIII 107 b. Balasruby six, six diamonds, silver, gold plated, gold. 3.7 x 4.7 cm© Dresden State Art Collections
Hutschnalle (Ruby garnish), Dinglingerhaus, workshop of Johann Melchior (jeweler), Dresden, before 1719. Green Vault. VIII 105. Balasruby six, six diamonds, silver, gold plated, gold. 4.1 x 5.4 cm © Dresden State Art Collections
Shoe Buckle (Ruby garnish). Dinglingerhaus, workshop of Johann Melchior (jeweler), Dresden, before 1719. Green Vault. VIII 106 a. Balasrubine six, six diamonds, gold, silver, partly gilt; 4.2 x 5.4 cm © Dresden State Art Collections
Knee buckle (Rubin garnish), Dinglingerhaus, workshop of Johann Melchior (jeweler), Dresden, before 1733. Green Vault. VIII 109a - VIII 109 b. Eight rubies and eight diamonds, gold, silver, partly gilt; 3.2 x 4.3 cm© Dresden State Art Collections
To the solid components of a complete gem set among the buckles. Similar in their design of the ordering character of a coordinated jewelry ensembles of the late Baroque is clear. It generally involves three related functional types: a Hutschnalle, two knees and two buckles shoe buckles. The relatively small Hutschnalle served to secure the hat cord around the hat head. Because of the potential visibility also the Doppelkorn opposing piece was decorated with ornament detail at the closure of the Hutschnalle. Using the knee buckles, bearing the name Jarre contemporary animal-buckle, the frets of the breeches at the desired level could be maintained. In the shoes of a slightly larger, at first hardly curved buckle was attached as an ornamental buckle. Created before 1719, the buckles of different sets differ only in the number of stone garnish with six or eight medium-sized colored gemstones. Each buckle received gems, each occupied the corner and center position on the buckle stalk. The colored gemstones were sitting in a golden frame, while the accompanying diamonds were taken to increase their appeal in silver. Only in the second half of the 18th Century it comes to custom buckles forms. The stones of today's Ruby set is only to a limited extent Oriental rubies, in the majority, there are spinels, which were then called BalasRubin or ruby Pallais. The deep red rubies were then very rare, expensive and hard to have a size of 4 to 5 carat. The pale red spinels were therefore adjusted using a color film rubies. They were set in gold, the diamonds also used in silver.
Breast Star of the Order of the White Eagle Polish (Ruby garnish), Dresden, 1722-1733. Green Vault. VIII 121. 268 rubies, 385 diamonds, gold, silver, partly gilt. 15.7 x 15.2 cm© Dresden State Art Collections
To almost every jewel set Augustus the Strong was a jewel of the Polish White Eagle Order. For four jewelery sets made August the Strong also make an order as a star gem. Order this star were in the two most valuable sets, diamond Rose, and the Brillant set, and in the Ruby and the tortoiseshell kit. To a complete decoration of the Order of the White Eagle Polish belonged next to the jewel that was worn on a blue ribbon on the right side, a sewn on the left chest, ornately embroidered orders star. The ruby set for August the Strong had a special meaning. It was the first set with colored gems that he had it made before his election to the Polish-Lithuanian king.Then in 1700 the fashionable use of rubies for jewelry sets received its own symbolism. Your red and white color, which results from the rubies and spinels on the one hand and the diamonds on the other hand, corresponds to the colors of the coat of arms of the Polish aristocratic republic.This did Auguste the strong political use: the ruby jewelry set with diamonds attained the rank of a Polish state set. Therefore, the Elector-King had fully complement the already existing jewelry on to 1719, so the Elector could invest the same with him the royal ruby set as the second person. The Order star is composed of geometric shapes: two corner positioned squares form a cross with eight tips. These are dissolved in 48 beams were alternately set with rubies and diamonds. Edged by a Latin cross rubies is placed the star. The center occupies an unusually large and glowing red ruby. In the arms of the cross can be found in gold the motto "PRO / FIDE / MAKE / GREGE". The Order can be exciting to the jeweler Johann Heinrich Köhler attributed.