Gold, emerald, diamond and ruby brooch. Photo courtesy Sotheby's.
Of Indian inspiration, centering a cushion-cut emerald weighing approximately 41.20 carats, accented by numerous round, baguette, pear-shaped, old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 11.55 carats, decorated with two stylized birds, further set with round and hexagon-shaped emeralds and five cabochon rubies, unsigned; circa 1945. With fitted Cartier box. Estimation 200,000 — 300,000 USD
Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 56438 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.
Although unsigned, this brooch is reminiscent of Cartier jewels inspired by the Indian aesthetic dating from between 1913 and the late 1940s. Other jewels by Cartier from the same Distinguished Family Collection utilize similar techniques, combining an array of vibrant colors, stones of unusual shapes and intricate metalwork to create pieces that are highly stylized and contemporary in nature, despite being inspired by visual traditions hundreds of years old. After Jacques Cartier’s first voyage to India in 1911, Indian-inspired jewels emerged from the design house as the Maharajas and the Indian elite started to ask for their traditional jewels to be re-set and re-worked to fit the new Parisian styles they so admired.
This brooch is a lovely complement to lots 455 and 458 from the same collection, both in style and technique. Like the two additional lots signed by Cartier, the present brooch capitalizes on the regal power of the emerald. Similar to lot 458, the emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier London, this brooch encases the 41.20 carat Colombian emerald in a delicate but ornate diamond frame. Many of the Cartier jewels of Indian inspiration pull their designs from the flora and fauna of India. One can see intricate floral designs in pieces such as lot 455, the ruby and emerald earclips. In this particular brooch, two exotic birds with their necks elegantly craned hover over and around the emerald-set center.
Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. New York | 11 Dec 2013 - www.sothebys.com