Formely in the collection of the Earl of Mar & Kellie. Diamond tiara-necklace, 1880s. Estimate 145,000 — 285,000 CHF. Photo: Sotheby's
Designed as a graduated row of lanceolated motifs set with circular-cut diamonds, alternating with lines of smaller collet-set diamonds, supported by a row of diamonds in box collets, length approximately 480mm, detachable into five sections measuring 205mm, 80mm, 70mm, 97mm and 10mm, together with a tiara frame.
Bibliography: Cf: Geoffrey C. Munn, Tiaras: A History of Splendour, Suffolk, 2001, pgs. 160-161 and 185 for similar examples of Russian fringe tiara/necklaces.
Notes: The 'Tiare Russe' draws its inspiration from kokoshniks, fan-shaped head ornaments modeled after the cockscomb which were originally part of Russian folk costume. Models in precious stones were worn by the Russian aristocracy beginning in the time of Catherine the Great. The fashion became popular in Western Europe, reaching its zenith in the second half of 19th century.
The proceeds from this lot will benefit the conservation of Alloa Tower by the National Trust for Scotland – Registered Charity SC 007410.
The 12th Countess of Mar and the 14th of Kellie, wearing the tiara at the coronation of King Edward VII, in 1902.
Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, Genève, 12 mai 2015, 10:30 AM