Lot 53. Enamel, gem-set and diamond 'Nymph' brooch, Masriera; and pair of peridot and diamond earclips, Tiffany & Co. Estimate K$58,000 - 98,000 (US$7,400 - 12,600). Courtesy Tiancheng International
The brooch designed as a winged nymph, applied with pearlescent and plique-à-jour enamel, anchored by a cultured pearl measuring approximately 6.38 x 8.14mm, accented by cabochon sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, pendant fitting, signed, accompanied with an original signed box; the earclips each centring on a round peridot weighing approximately 3.85 and 3.60 carats respectively, decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, 18 karat yellow and white gold, signed. (2)
Accompanied by Japanese Central Gem Laboratory report numbered FR13051, stating that the peridot is natural.
Bagues -Masriera
Bagues-Masriera was founded by Josep Masriera Vidal in 1839 in Barcelona. It is one of the top and longest-standing jewellers in Spain. In the 20th century, its third-generation leader Lluís Masriera took the brand to new heights, integrating the plique-à-jour technique he learnt in Geneva with the Art Nouveau movement that swept across Paris at the time. In 1901, he launched a groundbreaking collection with an unprecedented jewellery style reflecting a pursuit of freedom in composition and layout, along with a reverence for asymmetry. Adept at using soft graceful lines instead of stiff and straight ones, he combined the natural colours of gems with vitreous plique-à-jour enamel to depict the allure of women as well as nature such as flowers and birds. Bagues-Masriera set an iconic style that demonstrates the natural spirit of Art Nouveau.
To be offered in the auction is a vintage Bagues-Masriera brooch, highlighted by a forest nymph flapping her fine enamel wings thereby adding a touch of dynamism to this jewellery work. Bagues-Masriera is one of the few remaining workshops in the world that continues to master the artesian techniques of translucent enameling and fire enameling. Nuanced and mesmerizing, Bagues-Masriera’s work remains a timeless expression of artesian jewellery.