A sketch of the Serpent Egg pendant to mark the opening of the boutique inspired by the 1902 Fabergé Egg commissioned by the Duchess of Marlborough.

Copy of a watercolor rendering of a diamond necklace by A.V.Shinde for Harry Winston, 1991. Courtesy of Madonna/Helmut Newton.

Harry Winston. Watercolor rendering of emeralds, sapphires and diamond necklace, earrings and ring set on platinum for an hypothetic collection dedicated to Audrey Hepburn.

Harry Winston. Watercolor rendering of “barbazzale” chain in white and jellow gold. Copy of watercolor rendering of a “nine-gem” necklace designed by Rameshwar Shinde, 1945.

Van Cleef & Arpels catalogue featuring a brilliant-cut diamond of 38 carats, circa 1920. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives.

Van Cleef & Arpels catalogue featuring a 44-carat pear-shaped diamond and a 7-carat round blue diamond, circa 1920. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives

Van Cleef & Arpels catalogue featuring a 64 carats diamond of Prince Edward of York, circa 1920. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives.

Van Cleef & Arpels catalogue featuring a marquise-cut diamond of 28 carats and an Oriental Pearl of 150 grains, circa 1920. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives.

For three decades, Jean Schlumberger envisioned imaginative, colorful creations for Tiffany such as his Plumes necklace, which was inspired by the feathers of an exotic creature. (c) Tiffany

 Jean Schlumberger’s magnificent jewelry masterpieces like his fantastical Plumes necklace of diamonds, sapphires and rubies are faithfully replicated by Tiffany craftsmen today. (c) Tiffany. 

From the Tiffany Archives. Jean Schlumberger’s sketch for his Lotus bracelet. (c) Tiffany. 

Tiffany artisans created this bracelet from Jean Schlumberger’s sketch found in the Tiffany Archives. Schlumberger’s Lotus jewel is crafted from pailloné enamel and 18k gold with seed pods of diamonds, lapis lazuli and cabochon sapphires. (c) Tiffany. 

Among Jean Schlumberger’s greatest sources of inspiration were the sea and its creatures. At his Caribbean retreat, the designer paddled his boat to shallow waters to collect shells, which sparked this striking necklace. (c) Tiffany. 

The Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger® Shell necklace undulates with the motion of the waves. This design features 168 cabochon rubellites in 18k gold. (c) Tiffany. 

Jean Schlumberger’s sketch for a sea horse clip.(c) Tiffany. 

Tiffany designer Jean Schlumberger transformed nature’s wonders into jewels of mesmerizing beauty. His Fleur de Mer brooch (shown left), an exquisite creation of diamonds and sapphires, was a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor in 1965. Schlumberger’s Seahorse clip (1965) is another splendid example of his depictions of aquatic life. (c) Tiffany. 

Jean Schlumberger was one of the most renowned jewelry designers of the 20th century. When he joined Tiffany in 1956, his genius truly blossomed in fanciful, intricate jewels that were embraced by society’s most stylish women. (c) Tiffany. 

Moor with Emerald Level, Balthasar Permoser (sculptor), Wilhelm Kruger (sculptor), Johann Melchior Dinglinger (jeweler). Emerald: Gift of 1581; jewelery and sculptural works: probably 1724. Pear wood, painted, silver, gold, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, topazes, garnets, almandine, tortoiseshell, Emerald; 63.8 x 29.0 x 31.0 cm, H 58 cm without crown. VIII 303. Green Vault© Dresden State Art Collections 2013

The statuette would be without the Baroque interior design of the Green Vault 1723-1724 did not occur, because it owes its existence to the desire of Augustus the Strong, set up a treasure of his art collection in the new museum treasury. It was here in 1581 as a gift from the Emperor Rudolf II to Elector August came, occupied with sixteen sometimes very large emerald crystals chunks of limonitic rocks. The dark green gems come from a few years earlier developed emerald mine in Chivor-Somondoco (Colombia). At the behest of Elector Augustus should this "natural wonder" in the "Chur-Princely bull and tribal, to eternal Gedächtnüß" be preserved. Balthasar Permoser created for the expansion since 1723 in the nascent treasury museum that really most original of all possible means of presentation, the sculpture of a "Moor". The young, powerful man in dark brown lacquered pearwood, the associated border on a tray of tortoiseshell presents casual and smooth the Colombian Emerald level, is not a resident of Africa but an Indian. Although facial features and skin color are a black African, but the body tattoos ethnological exactly represented have him as well as a a Native of Florida, as well as the precious necklace and bracelets, jewelry chest, the feathered crown, the loincloth and the footwear that in after an engraving Dinglinger workshop were designed. Whether the two richly tattooed American Prince, who came as prisoners of war the English Captain Pecht to Dresden in 1722, have had a role model for the Mohr statuettes, devoid of probative value. However, they must have been admired as a true exotic, because the chronicler Johann Christian Crell reported that after only three years of teaching both languages well-Saxon and were eventually baptized.

Moor with country stone step, Johann Heinrich Köhler (jeweler), Dresden, 1724. Wood, painted, Silbererzstufe with Saxon gemstones: carnelian, amethyst, smoky topaz, copper, gold, brass, various color stones (partially foiled); 66.5 x 30.0 x 28.0 cm. V 156. Green Vault© Dresden State Art Collections 2013. 

In his statement for the redesign of the brilliant set of Augustus the Strong of the Dresden court jeweler Johann Heinrich Köhler mentioned on 4 July 1724 the delivery of a "Moor" which he had equipped with body jewelry, feather crown and a "mountain Stuffe". The added artfully silver ores and gems of the Electorate of Saxony level should document the country's wealth in natural resources. Koehler demanded 31 dollars "before a large mountain Stuffe gathered and verguldete shell they worinne träget the Moor". Including the 164 dollars which will received Köhler for the entire decoration of the Moors, was the statuette, considering the enormous sums that got paid for his masterpieces of the jeweler Dinglinger an inexpensive Schatzkammerstück.Datierung and signature on the wooden base (BALTHASAR Permoser fecit 1712) were probably not until the end of the 19th Supplemented century. The statuette is not from the hand of the Dresden court sculptor, but was pretty sure in the immediate area and at the same time to the more important artistic "Moor with emerald stage" (VIII, 303). Both owe their existence sculptures expand the decision of August the Strong the Secret detention in Dresden from 1723 to the baroque castle treasury museum. Everything indicates that Permoser and Dinglinger in the form of Moors which bears the gift of the Emperor Rudolf II in 1581 Emerald level, a glamorous model created, finally responded to the Köhler with a less successful virtuoso Pendantstück. Whether the two richly tattooed American Prince, who came in 1722 as a prisoner of war in Dresden, have had a role model for the Mohr statuettes, devoid of probative value. Only after completion of the jewel room in the spring of 1729 found the two Moors statuettes, which are identified by their head and body jewelry as Native Florida, their final place in the treasury.

Moor with monstrous pearlbowl, Balthasar Permoser (sculptor), Johann Melchior Dinglinger (Goldsmith), Dresden, about 1724. Wood, lacquer, gold, silver, gilt, enamel, precious stones, cameos, pearls, mother of pearl; H 19.9 cm, W 9.9 cm, depth 7.5 cm. VI 95. Green Vault© Dresden State Art Collections 2013. 

Black-skinned people were well known at the Saxon court. As "chamber Moors" they were part of the Saxon-Polish paddock. August the Strong appeared at the Carnival parade of the year 1709 even themselves with face painted as "Moorish king" on horseback and in "Mohr accompaniment". The Africans and its counterpart (VI, 90) each present a pearl shell with tuberous grown Perlmutterstücken. Your noble in miniatures fine body jewelry clearly corresponds with that of the great "Moor with emerald stage", which was created in 1724 for the nascent treasury museum in the Green Vault (cf. VIII, 303).

Moor with monstrous pearlbowl, Balthasar Permoser (sculptor), Johann Melchior Dinglinger (Goldsmith), Dresden, about 1724. Wood, lacquer, gold, silver, gilt, enamel, precious stones, cameos, pearls, mother of pearl. H 19.4 cm, W 10.0 cm, depth 7.6 cm. VI 90. Green Vault© Dresden State Art Collections 2013.

African Warrior, the bow swinging, Balthasar Permoser (sculptor), Johann Melchior Dinglinger (Goldsmith), Dresden, 1690-1700. Ebony, gold, silver, gilt, enamel, gemstones. H 11.0 cm, depth 4.5 cm with bow, Footprint: B 6.15 cm, D 4.0 cm. VI195. Green Vault© Dresden State Art Collections 2013.

African warrior with bow and arrow, Balthasar Permoser (sculptor), Johann Melchior Dinglinger (Goldsmith), Dresden, 1690-1700. Ebony, gold, silver, gilt, enamel, gemstones. H 10.9 cm Footprint: B 6.2 cm, D 4.1 cm, 4.5 cm T with bow. VI 196. Green Vault© Dresden State Art Collections 2013.

Under "gallantry" was understood in the decades around 1700 in addition to precious small vessels and miniature-like, through detailed worked ivory and wood figurines, which were often studded with precious stones and precious sometimes mounted on pedestals. Such statuettes, which were collected by August the Strong in large numbers, belong to the oeuvre of Balthasar Permoser. For most of them, the court jeweler Johann Melchior Dinglingerhaus the body jewelry made of gold enamel, gems and tiny items such as bows and arrows. The artistic preoccupation with the exotic strangeness of the inhabitants of Africa, the Permoser carved out of solid black ebony, and were called "Moors chamber" part of the Saxon-Polish royal court, through his work. Among the earliest are the two "Moors with bow and arrow," which probably arose shortly before the 1700s. Here an African warrior swings his bow rejoicing, because the arrow reached the goal, while the other (VI, 196) has just shot his arrow.

Africans, Balthasar Permoser (sculptor), Dresden to 1720-1725. Pear wood painted, gilded silver, pearl, precious stones. H 32.6 cm, W 13.5 cm, D 12.3 cm Footprint: 13.0 x 13.5 cm. VI 165. Green Vault© Dresden State Art Collections 2013.

Balthasar Permoser interest in the representation of exotic beauties pervades his entire creative life in Dresden. The earliest of his little Moor figurines of wood, which are characterized by their subtle modeling and elegance, created shortly after the 1700s. The jeweler Johann Melchior Dinglingerhaus summarized most of them to unique baroque treasure pieces, all the courtly taste of the early 18th Century corresponded. The two Africans as Kapitellträger seem closely related to each other by the counterplay of their movements, gestures and posture as husband and wife. You remember, albeit in a reduced version, in carved figurative, fairly stable> Mohr supports <, which served as Gueridons for parking chandelier and at the beginning of the 18th Century were gladly used. The carved from pear wood dark-skinned couple was placed on carried by turtles stand areas, established in those years, as Permoser had accomplished, for example, his first marble version of the Christ at the Column (Dresden Catholic Court), with the squatting satyr made of boxwood and the Mohr was with the Emerald level, one of the major works of the Green Vault, busy and has also been able to work on the monumental wooden figures of the Church Fathers Ambrose and Augustine, now in the Catholic Court Church in Dresden. These examples alone show the diversity of topics that Permoser has turned in his last decade of life with a sure sense of style and creative curiosity.

Belle Epoque Platinum, Gold, Pearl, Diamond and Ruby Pendant with Platinum and Pearl Chain Necklace. Photo courtesy Doyle New York.

The chain spaced by 26 pearls approximately 4.0 to 3.5 mm., suspending an openwork rose-cut diamond-set circular pendant of floral and garland design, centering 5 pearls approximately 4.5 to 4.2 mm., edged by 24 round rubies approximately 3.00 cts., circa 1910, one rose-cut diamond missing, approximately 13.8 dwts. Length 16 inches. Estimate $6,000-8,000 

Doyle New York. Important Jewelry. Wednesday, September 25, 2013 at 10am - http://www.doylenewyork.com

Pair of Belle Epoque Platinum, Gold, Ruby and Diamond Pendant-Earclips. Photo courtesy Doyle New York.

Topped by a line of 6 old-mine cut diamonds, suspending 2 oval rubies approximately 3.95 cts., surrounded by two rows of 84 old-mine cut diamonds, altogether approximately 2.15 cts., circa 1905, approximately 4.5 dwts. Estimate $6,000-8,000 

Doyle New York. Important Jewelry. Wednesday, September 25, 2013 at 10am - http://www.doylenewyork.com

A carved 'tixi' lacquer stem cup, Southern Song-Yuan Dynasty. Photo: Sothebys.

supported on a pedestal foot, crisply carved through layers of black and red lacquer to create a design of lappets formed from scrolls, the interior fitted with a silver liner. Height 3 in., 7.5 cm. Estimation 8,000 — 12,000 USD

Provenance: Christie's New York, 20th and 21st November 1979, lot 573. 

Note: A set of cups with a similar scroll design dating to the Southern Song dynasty is illustrated in Simon Kwan, Chinese Lacquer: The Muwen Tang Collection Series, vol. 20, Hong Kong, 2010, no. 13.  A stem cup with slightly different design is illustratedibid., no. 18, and another is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, where it is dated to the 13th century. 

Sotheby's. Fine Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art. New York | 17 sept. 2013 -http://www.sothebys.com/

White Gold, Light Brown-Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring  Photo courtesy Doyle New York.

18 kt., centering one rectangular cut-cornered modified brilliant-cut Light Brown-Pink diamond approximately 2.45 cts., surrounded by 8 heart-shaped and round diamonds approximately 2.60 cts., edged and accented by small round diamonds approximately 1.04 cts. Size 6 1/4. Estimate $60,000-80,000 

With GIA report no. 6127665473 stating that the diamond is Light Brown-Pink color. 

Doyle New York. Important Jewelry. Wednesday, September 25, 2013 at 10am - http://www.doylenewyork.com

Rhodium-Plated Gold and Diamond Necklace, France. Photo courtesy Doyle New York.

Composed of graduating flowers, each centering a cluster of diamonds, set throughout with 330 old European-cut, round and single-cut diamonds approximately 28.50 cts., with French assay mark and hallmarks, one diamond missing, circa 1940, approximately 47.3 dwts. Length 16 1/4 inches. With fitted box. Estimate $30,000-40,000 

Doyle New York. Important Jewelry. Wednesday, September 25, 2013 at 10am - http://www.doylenewyork.com

A grey jade bixie-form water dropper, Ming dynasty or earlier. Photo: Sothebys.

A gray jade  bixie-form water dropper, Ming dynasty or earlier. portrayed in a crouching position, the beast's large head crowned with two horns above heavy eyebrows, grasping a winged bowl in its mouth, drilled with a hole leading into the hollowed body, its back with a circular aperture, surrounded by archaistic motifs covering the body and terminating at the bifurcated tail, the gray stone suffused with inky black inclusions. Length 5 3/4  in., 14.6 cm. Estimation 80,000 — 120,000 USD

Provenance: Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Reginald Howard Reed Palmer, acquired November 1928.
Estate of Mr. and Mrs. R.H.R. Palmer, sold Bonhams, London, 11th June 2003, lot 9. 

Exposition: Chinese Jade Throughout the Ages: An Exhibition Organised by the Arts Council of Great Britain and The Oriental Ceramic Society, 1st May - 22nd June 1975. 

Litterature: Jessica Rawson and John Ayers, Chinese Jade Throughout the Ages: An Exhibition Organised by the Arts Council of Great Britain and The Oriental Ceramic Society, Issue 16, London, 1975, cat. no. 338.

Notes: This animated mythical creature has been skillfully carved in the round to capture both the robustness of its archaic roots and the playfulness characteristic of Ming jade animal carvings. Its stout body, decorated with archaistic scrolls, is finely formed and detailed and crouched on all fours as though ready to pounce, while the large facial features imply a certain mischievousness.  A jade water dropper of this form, in the Qing Court collection and still in Beijing, is illustrated in The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace Museum. Jadeware (II), Hong Kong, 1995, pl. 160; and another was sold at Christie’s New York, 21st March 2013, lot 1199.

The form of this vessel is inspired by archaic bronze vessels of the Six Dynasties period, a tumultuous yet artistically creative time in China’s history that succeeded the Han dynasty (206BC-220AD). For example, see a bronze water dropper similarly cast in the form of a mythical creature holding a bowl from its mouth, published in The Complete Collection of Treasures of the Palace Museum. Bronze Articles from Daily Use, Hong Kong, 2007, pl. 137; and another illustrated in Rene-Yvon Lefebre d’Argence, Ancient Chinese Bronzes in the Avery Brundage Collection, San Francisco, 1966, pl. XLVII, fig. B, together with a tapir-form vessel, fig. A. 

Sotheby's. Fine Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art. New York | 17 sept. 2013 -http://www.sothebys.com/

Platinum, Gold, Diamond and Ruby Flower Clip-Brooch, David Webb. Photo courtesy Doyle New York.

18 kt., centering one round diamond approximately .90 ct., encircled by 7 round diamonds approximately 2.25 cts., surrounded by petals embellished with 29 oval and round rubies, edged by 167 round and single-cut diamonds approximately 7.20 cts., signed Webb, approximately 27 dwts. Estimate $20,000-30,000 

A Westchester Estate 

Doyle New York. Important Jewelry. Wednesday, September 25, 2013 at 10am - http://www.doylenewyork.com

Pair of Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Earclips, Harry Winston. Photo courtesy Doyle New York.

Centering 2 round rubies approximately 2.30 cts., framed by 24 tapered baguette diamonds, edged by 18 round rubies approximately 4.30 cts., further edged by 26 round diamonds, diamonds altogether approximately 3.60 cts., with maker's mark, approximately 12.6 dwts. Estimate $20,000-30,000 

Doyle New York. Important Jewelry. Wednesday, September 25, 2013 at 10am - http://www.doylenewyork.com

A celadon jade leaf-form brushwasher, 17th-18th century. Photo: Sothebys.

naturalistically carved as an upright lotus leaf, with gently furled edges, forming the deep well of the vessel, the exterior carved in relief with a pair of birds; one in flight, the other alighting onto an open lotus flower, all rising from an openwork base formed by the entwined stem of the plant issuing lotus blossoms, pods and leaves, the stone of celadon color with russet, gray and cloudy inclusions. Length 4 1/2  in., 11.4 cm. Estimation 20,000 — 30,000 US

Note: A closely related example, dated to the Ming dynasty, is illustrated in Zhongguo gu yu jing hua (The Cream of China's Jade Article), Shijiazhuang,1995, no. 163. 

Sotheby's. Fine Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art. New York | 17 sept. 2013 -http://www.sothebys.com/

Platinum, Gold, Emerald and Diamond Ring. Photo courtesy Doyle New York.

Centering one emerald-cut emerald approximately 8.50 cts., framed by 54 round diamonds approximately 6.50 cts. Size 6 3/4. Estimate $50,000-70,000 

With Gubelin Gem Lab report no. 12085126 stating that the emerald is of Zambian origin, indication of insignificant clarity enhancement. 

Doyle New York. Important Jewelry. Wednesday, September 25, 2013 at 10am - http://www.doylenewyork.com

A yellow-ground Famille-Rose 'Medallion' bowl, Daoguang seal mark and period. Photo: Sothebys.

the rounded sides rising from a straight foot to a slightly flared rim, the exterior with three gilt-edged medallions enclosing a goat in a differing attitude beneath a tree in bloom, interspersed by floral sprays and clusters of fruit and precious objects reserved on an incised lemon-yellow ground, the interior decorated in underglaze blue with a double line medallion enclosing three goats encircled on the well by detached flowering and fruiting sprays, each tied with a Buddhist emblem, seal mark in underglaze blue. Diameter 5 3/4  in., 14.5 cm. Estimation 30,000 — 40,000 USD 

Sotheby's. Fine Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art. New York | 17 sept. 2013 -http://www.sothebys.com/

Chinese Famille Rose Porcelain Bowl, Daoguang Six-Character Mark and Possibly of the Period. Photo courtesy Doyle New York

The deep form rising to a slightly everted rim, the exterior decorated with stylized lotus blooms, flower heads, and leafy scrolls, all reserved on a lemon-yellow ground, the interior painted with five iron-red bats. Diameter 4 1/2 inches. Very good condition. Estimate $1,000-1,500 

Doyle New York. Asian Works of Art. Monday, September 16, 2013 at 10am. http://www.doylenewyork.com/

Chinese Enameled Porcelain Bowl, Daoguang Seal Mark and of the Period. Photo courtesy Doyle New York

The conical shape painted on the exterior with three white goats amid rockwork and blossoming flowers of spring, inscription on the reverse. Diameter 5 1/4 inches. Good condition. Estimate $6,000-8,000 

Doyle New York. Asian Works of Art. Monday, September 16, 2013 at 10am. http://www.doylenewyork.com/

Chinese Enameled Porcelain Vase, Daoguang Mark and of the Period. Photo courtesy Doyle New York

The double gourd form painted with a profusion of blossoming flowers below a gilt rim, the base and interior worked in turquoise. Height 11 inches. Very light gilt wear, very light enamel wear. Estimate $5,000-7,000 

Doyle New York. Asian Works of Art. Monday, September 16, 2013 at 10am. http://www.doylenewyork.com/

A large Famille-Rose dish, Qing dynasty, 19th century. Photo: Sothebys.

enameled with four fluttering butterflies hovering over bamboo and two lush sprays of blossoming pink and iron-red chrysanthemum emerging from leafy boughs, the foliage of varying greens and stages of growth, the taller of the plants extending around and arching over conforming nicely to the curving form, the branches continuing over the rim and around the sides in opposing directions, apocryphal Yongzheng six-character mark in underglaze blue. Diameter 20 1/4 in., 51.4 cm. Estimation 10,000 — 15,000 USD 

PROPERTY FROM A CHICAGO COLLECTION

Provenance: Lesley Ottoway Collection, New York. 

Sotheby's. Fine Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art. New York | 17 sept. 2013 -http://www.sothebys.com/