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Isaak Soreau (Hanau 1604-1645/55 Francfort), Nature morte de prunes dans une coupe, cerises, noix et noisettes

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Lot 10. Isaak Soreau (Hanau 1604-1645/55 Francfort), Nature morte de prunes dans une coupe, cerises, noix et noisettes, huile sur cuivre, réduit, 30,9 x 39,2 cm. (12 1/8 x 15 3/8 in.). Estimate EUR 30,000 - EUR 50,000Price realised EUR 87,500. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

Note: Bien qu’il n’ait pas été son maître, le travail de Soreau montre une forte influence de Jacob van Hulsdonck (1582-1647), tant au niveau de ses compositions que du traitement des objets représentés.

Le corpus des œuvres d’Isaak Soreau est particulièrement cohérent : la plupart de ses tableaux présentent, sur un entablement de bois, des fruits dans des plats ou dans des paniers, auxquels s'ajoutent fleurs, fruits et insectes savamment disposés sur la table. L’artiste a souvent réarrangé les mêmes objets et fait des variantes de ses compositions les plus réussies. 
Gerhard Bott répertorie deux variantes de notre Nature morte dans le catalogue raisonné des œuvres de Soreau (voir G. Bott, Die Stillebenmaler Soreau, Hanau, 2001, nos. WV.IS. 36 et WV.IS. 37). De plus, un plat de prunes identique à celui de notre tableau, est représenté dans la Nature morte de fruits et fleurs conservée au musée du Petit Palais (op. cit, no. WV.IS.35 ; inv. PDUT1167). 

Nous remercions Fred Meijer pour avoir confirmé l’attribution de cette œuvre après examen photographique.

Christie's. Tableaux 1400 - 1900, Paris, 20 June 2018


Jan van Kessel (Anvers, 1626-1679), L'Arbre aux oiseaux

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Lot 14. Jan van Kessel (Anvers, 1626-1679), L'Arbre aux oiseauxsigné'i. V. KESSEL' (en bas vers la gauche), huile sur cuivre, 19,4 x 29,1 cm. (7 5/8 x 11 ½ in.). Estimate EUR 40,000 - EUR 60,000Price realised EUR 93,750. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

Provenant d'une ancienne collection française.

NoteNous remercions le Dr. Klaus Ertz d'avoir confirmé l'attribution de ce tableau sur la base d'une photographie.

Christie's. Tableaux 1400 - 1900, Paris, 20 June 2018

Gérard David (Oudewater vers 1455-1523 Bruges), La Déploration sur le Christ Mort

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Lot 5. Gérard David (Oudewater vers 1455-1523 Bruges), La Déploration sur le Christ mort, huile sur panneau, 18 x 17,4 cm. (7 1/8 x 6 7/8 in.). Estimate EUR 30,000 - EUR 50,000Price realised EUR 110,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

NoteGérard David est considéré comme le dernier des grands Primitifs flamands. Né dans le nord des Pays-Bas, c’est bien à Bruges qu’il s’installe dès 1484, date à laquelle il est inscrit à la corporation des imagiers. Il y travaille dans la continuité des artistes plus méridionaux comme Jan van Eyck ou Hugo van der Goes, tout en subissant l’influence de Hans Memling, autant sur le plan stylistique qu’iconographique. Si sa carrière se poursuivra à Bruges, où il décèdera en 1523, elle dépassera cependant les limites de cette ville, puisque le peintre semble avoir également été reçu en 1515 à la Guilde d’Anvers, cité qui, à cette époque, est en train de prendre le pas sur sa rivale en terme d’économie et de dynamisme.
L’on a pu établir un corpus d’environ soixante tableaux exécutés en toute certitude par David, néanmoins aucun de ceux-ci n’est signé ou daté, ce qui rend l’établissement d’une chronologie précise de son œuvre complexe. Pour la plupart exécutés sur petit format, ses œuvres sont principalement destinées à la dévotion privée, et représentent généralement une seule ou deux figures religieuses. C’est le cas pour ce précieux panneau, qui représente la Déploration de la Vierge sur le Christ mort. Dans un cadrage resserré, accentuant ainsi la proximité de la Vierge pleurant la mort de son fils et concentrant l’attention sur la douleur de celle-ci, Gérard David offre une image d’une piété fervente et sincère.
La composition de David est connue par plusieurs exemplaires (voir Hans J. Van Miegroet, Gerard David, Anvers, 1989, qui en répertorie huit), dont l’un, encore conservé en collection privée à Amsterdam en 1989 (Miegroet, op. cit., no. 32) est considéré comme original. C’est également l’un des seuls dont le fond représente un paysage, tandis que dans la plupart des autres versions connues, comme celle-ci, la Vierge et le Christ se détachent sur un fond bleu. D’un raffinement poussé, la couche picturale présente des repentirs visibles à l’œil nu, notamment dans l’annulaire de la main gauche de la Vierge. Des traces du dessin sous-jacent, visibles à la réflectographie infrarouge, témoignent d’une préparation minutieuse de l’œuvre, éxecutée probablement dans l’atelier même de Gérard David. 

Christie's. Tableaux 1400 - 1900, Paris, 20 June 2018

Maître de la Légende de Saint Jacques (Rhin supérieur ou Alsace, fin XVème-début XVIème siècle), La Dormition de la Vierge

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Lot 1. Maître de la Légende de Saint Jacques (Rhin supérieur ou Alsace, fin XVème-début XVIème siècle), La Dormition de la Vierge, inscrit 'L STRAONE' (vers le centre à gauche), huile et rehauts d'or sur panneau, 76,2 x 49,9 cm. (30 x 19 5/8 in.). Estimate EUR 80,000 - EUR 120,000Price realised EUR 100,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

Littérature: A. Stange, Kritisches Verzeichnis der deutschen Tafelbilder vor Dürer, vol II. Munich, 1970, p. 41. 
B. Konrad, Alfred Stange, Kritisches Verzeichnis der deutschen Tafelbilder vor Dürer. Band II. Mit Abbildungen und Ergänzungen. DVD intéractif avec 4300 illustrations. Édité par l'auteur, Radolfzell 2009.

NoteD’une exceptionnelle qualité et dans un bel état de conservation, ce panneau est à rapprocher d’un groupe d’œuvres exécutées par un même artiste à la fin du XVe siècle et au début du siècle suivant dans les régions du Rhin supérieur et de l’Alsace. 

Le tableau est répertorié et regroupé en 1970 par Alfred Stange avec un ensemble de onze œuvres considérées comme provenant du Rhin supérieur et inspirées par des gravures de Schongauer. Si Stange ne va pas plus loin dans ses tentatives d’attribution de l’œuvre à un artiste en particulier, il regroupe en revanche plusieurs tableaux au style cohérent et similaire sous le nom du Maître de la Légende de saint Jacques, sans y inclure toutefois le présent panneau. 
C’est pourtant bel-et-bien à ce peintre qu’il faut rendre cette Dormition de la Vierge, comme Bernd Konrad l’explique dans sa réédition numérique commentée de l’ouvrage de Stange. Les comparaisons de style et de physionomie avec plusieurs autres panneaux de l’artiste permettent de rendre sans doute possible notre œuvre à ce maître, dont le nom dérive d’un retable démantelé sur le thème de la Légende de saint Jacques et exécuté vers 1495-1500. Cinq des éléments de cet ensemble sont connus à ce jour, deux conservés au musée de l’Œuvre de Notre-Dame à Strasbourg (inv. 22.984.5.1 et MBA 1516), l’un au musée d’Unterlinden à Colmar, et deux en collections privées (dont un au dépôt au musée historique de Bern).

Directement inspiré de la célèbre gravure de Schongauer sur le même sujet (ill. 1) – l’on notera quelques variantes, dont la présence, au-dessus du lit, du Christ porté par les anges accueillant l’âme de la Vierge – le présent panneau témoigne de l’influence considérable du « Hübsche Martin » dans l’art alsacien et nord-germanique de la fin du XVe siècle.

Nous remercions le Dr. Bernd Konrad pour avoir confirmé l’attribution de cette œuvre au Maître de la Légende de saint Jacques sur la base d’une photographie et pour l’aide à la rédaction de cette notice

Christie's. Tableaux 1400 - 1900, Paris, 20 June 2018

Monogrammist A C (Français, actif vers 1577), Portrait de Sibylle de Clèves-Juliers-Berg, margravine de Burgau (1557-1628)

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Lot 11. Monogrammist A C (Français, actif vers 1577), Portrait de Sibylle de Clèves-Juliers-Berg, margravine de Burgau (1557-1628), huile sur panneau, 49,3 x 36,1 cm. (19 3/8 x 14 ¼ in.). Estimate EUR 50,000 - EUR 70,000Price realised EUR 87,500. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

NoteD’une finesse remarquable, notre portrait appartient au corpus, encore mal défini, d’un artiste énigmatique ayant travaillé pour la cour du duc Guillaume de Clèves à Düsseldorf dans les années 1570. L’identité de ce portraitiste de talent reste à découvrir, bien que l’un de ses tableaux soit signé de ses initiales AC et daté de 1577 (huile sur chêne, 43,7 x 34,3 cm; Munich, Alte Pinakothek, inv. 1430 ; ill. 1). Plusieurs noms ont été proposés : le français Antoine Caron qui semble n’avoir jamais été en Allemagne, Adriaen Pietersz. Crabeth, peintre vitrier de Gouda mort en 1553, Anthonis Claeissens de Bruges dont la manière est très différente ou Adriaen Pietersz. Cluyt, actif à Alkmaar où il est mort en 1604. D’après Van Mander, Cluyt fut l’élève d’Anthonis Blockland van Montfoort et portraitiste, mais aucune œuvre ne lui est aujourd’hui attribuée avec certitude et il n’existe nulle trace de son éventuel séjour à Düsseldorf. Il faut par ailleurs noter que le monogramme pourrait également se lire AE.

Le portrait de Munich et notre œuvre présentent le même modèle et s’avèrent très proches, même si le premier adopte un cadrage en petit-buste et sans les mains, tandis que notre tableau est une représentation à la taille. La jeune femme est vue de face, son visage sculpté dans une lumière latérale froide donnant des ombres grisées. La blancheur de sa peau l’emporte sur celle de la large fraise à godrons qui enserre son cou. Sa coiffure relevée est agrémentée d’une petite toque noire à plumet. La robe, sans décolletéà la mode espagnole, est tracée de galons de fil d’or et d’argent. Elle est de satin blanc dans la peinture de Munich et de velours noir dans notre portrait. Les joyaux sertis de perles, rubis et diamants qui complètent la tenue de la jeune femme varient également entre les deux tableaux.

L’identité du modèle est confirmée par une gravure anonyme datée de 1576 et qui paraît dériver de notre portrait (ill. 2). L’estampe est ornée du blason des Clèves et annotée « Von Gods gnade Sibilla geborne Furstinne von Geulich, Cleve, und Berch ». Fille cadette du duc Guillaume et de Marie d’Autriche, et nièce de l’empereur Maximilien II et de l’archiduc Ferdinand de Tyrol, Sibylle naquit en 1557. Contrairement à ses sœurs, mariées très tôt, Sibylle resta auprès de son père jusqu’à sa mort en 1592. Elle s’occupa ensuite de la gouvernance du duché de Clèves, son frère Jean Guillaume étant sujet aux crises de folie. Elle fit notamment emprisonner sa belle-sœur, Jacobe de Bade, accusée d’adultère. En 1601, Sibylle épousa son cousin Charles, margrave de Burgau, issu du mariage morganatique de Ferdinand de Tyrol et de Philippine Welser. Le couple n’eut pas d’enfants. 

La guerre qui éclata en 1609 entre les Neubourg et les Brandebourg pour la succession du duc Jean Guillaume mort sans descendance légitime, provoqua le départ de Sibylle et de son époux de Düsseldorf. Les margraves s’installèrent à Gunzbourg, capitale de Burgau. La princesse y établit une belle cour réputée notamment pour la musique. Elle mourut en 1628.

Notre tableau est à rapprocher du portrait conservé au Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon (inv. CA 250, huile sur bois, 43,5 x 33,4 cm ; ill. 3) qui représente, selon toute vraisemblance, la sœur aînée de Sibylle, Madeleine de Clèves (1553-1633). La future comtesse palatine y porte un vêtement quasi identique, mais apparaît tournée légèrement vers la droite. Le Städtisches Museum Haus Koekkoek de Clèves conserve une version en petit-buste de ce portrait (huile sur bois, 43,5 x 34,5 cm.) qui répond parfaitement à celui de Sibylle de l’Alte Pinakothek. Il faut donc imaginer le duc Guillaume de Clèves commander, vers 1576 et au même artiste à la manière toute flamande, deux portraits de chacune de ses filles encore à marier.

Nous remercions Alexandra Zvereva pour les recherches effectuées sur cette œuvre ainsi que pour l'aide à la rédaction de cette notice

Christie's. Tableaux 1400 - 1900, Paris, 20 June 2018

Cristoforo Munari (Reggio d'Emiglie 1667-1720 Pise), Trompe-l'œil aux instruments du peintre et aux gravures

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Lot 22. Cristoforo Munari (Reggio d'Emiglie 1667-1720 Pise), Trompe-l'œil aux instruments du peintre et aux gravures, porte une inscription reportée 'Cristofano Monari (sic) / Dipinse' (au verso), huile sur toile, chantournée, sans cadre, 90 x 77,5 cm. (35 3/8 x 30 ½ in.), au plus haut et large. Estimate EUR 40,000 - EUR 60,000Price realised EUR 87,500. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

ProvenanceCollection Riccardi, Florence, jusqu’en 1806.
Collection privée, Londres, en 1938.
Collection Ubaldo Giugni, Florence, jusque dans les années 1960.
Collection Emilio Terry (1890-1969) au château de Rochecotte.
Collection privée, Paris.

Littérature: G. Delogu, 'Cristofano Monari o Monarico? : Monari o Munari?', dans Emporium, 1955, vol. 121, p. 254, ill. fig. 8. 
G. Delogu, Natura morta italiana, Bergame, 1962, p. 178.
A. Ghidiglia Quintavalle, Christoforo Munari e la natura morta emiliana, Parme, 1964, p. 78, no. 51. 
F. Baldassari, Cristoforo Munari, Milan, 1998, p. 173, no. 71, ill. p. 174.

NoteAprès avoir travaillé d'abord dans sa ville natale en tant que protégé de Rinaldo d'Este, duc de Modène, Munari se rend à Rome en 1703 puis, en 1706, à Florence, où il travaille à la cour de Ferdinand de Médicis. Se spécialisant dans les natures mortes, Munari reflète le luxe de la société qui l’environne en assemblant dans ses compositions de nombreux objets précieux ou exotiques qu’il met en scène avec une certaine opulence. 

Étonnant par son format découpé (les gravures dans la partie supérieure, la palette dans le bas, ainsi que le bâton de peintre dépassent du rectangle initial du châssis…), l’œuvre avait à l’origine un pendant qui reprenait lui aussi certains outils du peintre (voir F. Baldassari, Cristoforo Munari, Milan, 1998, no. 70).
Avec un naturalisme captivant, Munari regroupe ici, plaqués sur un battant de placard en bois, des gravures, une toile peinte sans châssis dont le paysage évoque l’art de Dughet ou Mola, ainsi qu’une palette encore pleine de ses couleurs et le bâton qui sert au peintre d’appui lorsqu’il exécute une toile.

Comme le précise Francesca Baldassari dans sa monographie sur l’artiste, les deux œuvres furent sans doute commandées par Francesco Riccardi (1648-1719), l’un des plus importants collectionneurs florentins de son temps. La présente toile est en effet décrite dans plusieurs des inventaires de la famille Riccardi, en 1715, 1748 et 1806. 

Christie's. Tableaux 1400 - 1900, Paris, 20 June 2018

Gerard van Kuijl (Gorinchem 1604-1673), Les Quatre âges de la vie

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Lot 24. Gerard van Kuijl (Gorinchem 1604-1673), Les Quatre âges de la vie, signé, inscrit et daté indistinctement '[...] / operathunis / consistit / [...] g.v.d.k. / 164[3]' (au centre), huile sur toile, 122 x 149,7 cm. (48 x 58 7/8 in.). Estimate EUR 80,000 - EUR 120,000Price realised EUR 93,750. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

NoteGerard van Kuijl est issu d’une vieille famille catholique de Gorinchem, ville du Sud des Pays-Bas. Son nom apparaît pour la première fois dans des documents d’archives en 1625, en tant que témoin de Sophia Coopmans, l’épouse de Gerrit van Honthorst (1590-1656), ce qui laisse supposer des relations étroites entre les deux hommes et sans doute le fait que Van Kuijl fut l’élève d’un des principaux peintres caravagesques d’Utrecht.
L’on retrouve par la suite Gerard van Kuijl à Rome, où il apparaît en 1629 sous le nom de « Gerardo fiammingo » ou « Gherardo pittore », comme vivant dans la maison du peintre originaire de Cambrai Giovanni del Campo (Jean Ducamps) sur la via Margutta. Comme de nombreux peintres venus du Nord, il fera partie du groupe des Bentvueghels, la célèbre communauté d’artistes flamands et hollandais installés à Rome.
Après cette courte période italienne – dont on ne connaît aucune œuvre – le peintre retourne dans sa ville natale qu’il ne quittera plus jusqu’à sa mort, mis à part un bref séjour à Utrecht.

Durablement marqué par le caravagisme, Van Kuijl va, tout au long de sa carrière, s’attacher à la représentation de sociétés joyeuses et costumées, avec un goût particulièrement prononcé pour les assemblées de musiciens. Les Âges de la vie, lisiblement monogrammé et indistinctement daté 1643 au centre de la composition, rappelle par sa composition ces tableaux de groupe, mais s’en éloigne par son sujet plus réfléchi.

Van Kuijl ne déroge pas ici à l’iconographie traditionnelle du sujet, représentant les quatre étapes de l’existence humaines à travers les activités qui sont propres à chaque âge : le jeu pour le petit enfant, qui chevauche un cheval de bois, muni d’un moulin à vent ; les arts pour le jeune homme habillé de façon coloré et jouant du théorbe ; la science pour l’homme d’âge mûr ; et enfin la méditation sur la mort et la prière pour le vieillard, absorbé dans la contemplation d’un crâne.

L’artiste s’éloigne ici sensiblement de son maître et du caravagisme d’Utrecht aussi bien qu’italien. Le traitement plus sourd du coloris, la touche moins fondue et plus visible comme les empâtements vigoureux, notamment dans la figure du vieillard, semblent des réminiscences de l’art de Rembrandt ou de l’un de ses élèves.

Une autre version de cette composition, non signée et de facture plus faible – ce qui laisse penser qu’il s’agit d’une copie d’après la présente œuvre – est passée en vente à Vienne (Dorotheum) le 21 janvier 2014

Christie's. Tableaux 1400 - 1900, Paris, 20 June 2018

A German silver-gilt-mounted turbo-shell cup, Lüneburg, late 16th-early 17th century

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Lot 101. Property from the Collection of Baroness Carmen Thyssen-Bornemisza. A German silver-gilt-mounted turbo-shell cup, Lüneburg, late 16th-early 17th century, maker's mark indistinct, possibly that of Claus Harders; 11 in. (28 cm.) highEstimate GBP 200,000 - GBP 300,000 USD 265,200 - USD 397,800)© Christie's Images Ltd 2018

The turbo shell rim cast with masks and reclining figures and retained by four straps cast with herms and strapwork, the knop with three winged figures and bunches of fruit, above a circular stepped foot cast and chased with fruits to the upper band and strapwork to the lower, surmounted by a later figure probably emblematic of Fortune astride a globe, marked on foot.

Provenance: Anonymous sale; Sotheby's, Zurich, 18 November 1977, lot 98.
with Kugel, Paris, 1979.

LiteratureH. Müller, European Silver from the Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection, London, 1986, cat. no. 46, pp. 166-167.

ExhibitedSt. Petersburg, The State Hermitage Museum and Moscow, The State Russian Museum, Gold and Silver Treasures from Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection, 1986, p. 23, cat. no. 7. 
Miami, Center for Fine Arts; Omaha, Joslyn Art Museum; Indianapolis, Indianapolis Museum of Art; Fort Worth, Kimbell Art Museum; Memphis, The Dixon Gallery and Gardens, Gold and Silver from Thyssen- Bornemisza Collection, 1987-1988, cat. no. 7.

NoteThese objects, intended more for display than daily use, decorated the Schatzkammer or Kunstkammer of the rich and intellectually curious throughout Europe in the 16th and 17th centuries such as the Grünes Gewölbe in Dresden. The new taste for gilt-mounted nautilus shells in particular was satisfied by increased commercial exchanges with the East. The current cup is mounted with the shell of a Great Green Turban shell (Turbo marmoratus) as recorded by Linnaeus, 1758. The shells were sourced in the Indo-West pacific and besides being mounted in cups such as the present example were used in the production of mother-of-pearl.

The Victoria and Albert Museum has a magnificent 16th century example marked for Nuremburg (863:1, 2-1882). In their cataloguing of it they note two examples which are listed in an inventory dated 1574 of Queen Elizabeth I's jewels and plate. They note that ‘one of these is a cup of mother of pearl with a cover of silver gilt topped with a Triton wielding a trident; the other is a standing cup of shell garnished with gilt silver and with the story of Jonah on it also in silver’. It is known that one of these two cups was a New Year's gift of Lord John Grey in 1559. This sits well with contemporary demands of New Year's gifts that they be made of expensive and rare materials, combined in technically challenging and aesthetically complex fashions. Others are recorded in Ferdinando de'Medici's Tribuna, where the 1589 inventory mentions various shells, including at least one which is described as being ‘decorated in very low relief and set on a gilt silver base’. Speaking of another silver-gilt mounted turbo cup by Jacob Frick, Constance, 1590-1600 from the Gilbert Collection, now on loan to the Victoria and Albert Museum T. Schroder (The Gilbert Collection of Gold and Silver, Los Angeles, 1988, pp. 514-518) notes that the earliest example of mounting such a cup is probably one possibly mounted in Salzburg about 1500-1520 which is now in the Museo degli Argenti, Florence. He records another Turbo shell, mounted as an ewer, by Wenzel Jamnitzer, Nuremberg, circa 1570 which is in the Schatzkammer in Munich.

Noting that the maker’s mark on the mounts of present cup is unclear H. Müller explains the possible attribution to Claus Harders and records a double cup engraved with an inscription dated 1585 by him which is in the collection of the Kunstgewbemuseum in Berlin (inv. No. 1874.385) and which is published by S. Bursche (Das Lüneburger Ratssilber, Munich, 2008, no. 31, pp. 118-119). Harder was made a master in 1572 and died in 1610. Muller notes the similarities in ‘the neat clarity and precise delineation of the ornamental work’, going on to note that the ‘latter is more densely applied in the present case’ (H. Müller, European Silver from the Thyssen Bornemisza Collection, London, 1986, cat. no. 46, p. 166).

Christie's. The Exceptional Sale 2018, London, 5 July 2018


A silver-gilt-mounted hardstone cup, possibly created by Edward Farrell in the early 19th century

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Lot 102. Property from the Collection of Baroness Carmen Thyssen-Bornemisza. A silver-gilt-mounted hardstone cup, possibly created by Edward Farrell in the early 19th century, incorporating 16th century elements, after a design by Virgil Solis; 9 ¼ in. (23.5 cm.) highEstimate GBP 120,000 - GBP 180,000 (USD 159,120 - USD 238,680). © Christie's Images Ltd 2018

The agate carved as a turbo shell surmounted by the figure of Neptune holding a cornucopia and a trident, astride a seahorse, on circular base with stem cast as a satyr holding two dolphins, engraved underneath with an inscription and painted inventory number '718'. The inscription reads 'Formerly in the possession of HRH the Duke of York.'

Provenance: Prince Frederick, Duke of York (1763-1827), according to the inscription.
Arturo José López Willshaw (1900-1962) of Hôtel Rodocanachi, Neuilly-sur-Seine, companion of Alexis von Rosenberg, Baron de Redé, Hôtel Lambert, Paris.
Twenty-Five Renaissance Jewels and Works of Art from the Collection of the late Arturo-Lopez-Willshaw; Sotheby's, London, 10 June 1974, lot 23.

LiteratureJ. F. Hayward, Virtuoso Goldsmiths, London, 1976, p. 334, pl. 10. 
H. Müller, European Silver from the Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection, London, 1986, cat. no. 82, pp. 276-277 (as Antwerp circa 1560-70). 
Sammlung Thyssen-Bornemisza, Gold and Silver Treasures from the Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection, Lugano, exhibition catalogue, 1987, p. 23, no. 7.
H-U Mette, Der Nautiluspokal Wie Kunst und Natur miteinander spielen, Munich, 1995, fig. 126.

ExhibitedMiami, Center for Fine Arts; Omaha, Joslyn Art Museum; Indianapolis, Indianapolis Museum of Art; Fort Worth, Kimbell Art Museum; Memphis, The Dixon Gallery and Gardens, Gold and Silver from Thyssen- Bornemisza Collection, 1987-1988, cat. no. 7.

NoteVIRGIL SOLIS AND CORNELIS FLORIS
The design for this cup is derived from an engraving by Virgil Solis (1514-1562) which in turn takes inspiration from a work by Cornelis Floris (1514-1575) published by Hieronymus Cock (1518-1570) in 1548, as cited by Hannelore Müller in her catalogue of the Thyssen-Bornemisza collection (op. cit., 276-278), see above. Both designs show the shell shaped bowl supported by the figure of a satyr clasping a dolphin beneath each arm. The bases differ from the present cup, being spool shaped and applied with a snail. The Solis design is closer to the present cup. Both depict the figure of Neptune however, on the cup he is astride a hippocamp.

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An engraving by Virgil Solis (1514-1562).

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Nautilusbokaal, Balthazar van den Bos, after Cornelis Floris (II), 1548 © The Rijksmuseum.

The dating of these designs led Hayward to attribute the cup to an Antwerp workshop of the 1560s in Virtuoso Goldsmiths, p. 334. This was discussed at length by Müller and the attribution questioned, however, there are a number of factors which suggest the English Regency period for the assembly and partial creation of the cup. Its ownership by the Duke of York, as recorded by the inscription on the base, places it in the sphere of the celebrated retailer Kensington Lewis (c.1790-1854) and the silversmith Edward Farrell. Lewis supplied the Duke with magnificent works, many in a Mannerist revival style. He was an early promoter of antiquarian taste and bought Renaissance works of art in the Duke of Norfolk's sale at Christie's in 1816. He acquired a salver decorated with 'figures of marine deities' or 'sea nymphs and tritons in relief,' and a tankard with 'a feast of the Gods, in exquisite bas-relief . . . Alexander visiting the tent of Darius . . . the handle formed as a syren [sic.].' He also owned and exhibited the celebrated Aldobrandini tazze in 1826.

A metal analysis of samples taken from the strapwork of the upper body of the present lot show it to be 95% silver, almost Britannia standard. Whilst the level of impurities of gold, lead and bismuth do not point to a 19th century alloy, Edward Farrell is known to have worked in the Britannia standard, perhaps reusing early 18th century metal. Gilding prevents the testing of the figures and the base. The construction of the stem and base, with the elements soldered together rather than being detachable and fixed by bolts and nuts, is atypical of 16th century construction. As a Regency creation it is an important and early example of Royal collecting tastes. Interestingly the sale of the Duke of Cambridge's collection, which took place at Christie's on 7 June 1904, included as lot 134 'A NAUTILUS CUP, mounted with silver-gilt, the borders and straps finely engraved with running arabesque foliage and chased with masks, on silver-gilt stem formed as a Satyr carrying two dolphins, and on circular plinth chased with three masks, and chased with strapwork; the cup is surmounted by a figure of Neptune riding a sea horse riding a sea-horse - 6 1/2 in. high - German, late 16th Century.' The absence of a hardstone bowl and the discrepancy in size make it very unlikely that this is the same piece, however it could well have been a similar version to the present lot, produced for the Duke's brother, or perhaps the prototype for the present lot.

THE DUKE OF YORK (1763-1827)
Prince Frederick Augustus, Duke of York and Albany, in common with his elder brother King George IV and to a lesser extent the Dukes of Sussex and Cambridge, was one of the most influential collectors of antique and modern silver of the early 19th century. His acquisitiveness, unfettered spending and his taste for gambling led to his his finances being in a parlous state at the time of his death. His debts were estimated to be between £200,000 and £500,000. The imprecise nature of the figure being perhaps an indication of just how chaotic the Duke's financial affairs were. This led to the unprecedented sale of his collection at Christie's over four days. The present cup does not feature in the sale and this, together with the inscription, suggests the cup left the Duke's collection before his death, possibly as a gift.

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The Duke of York (1763-1827)

Prince Frederick was the second and favourite son of King George III. He was married to Princess Frederica, daughter of Friedrich Wilhelm II, King of Prussia, when he was twenty-eight although they separated shortly thereafter. At the time of his wedding he was said to have had the enormous income of £70,000. Following the outbreak of the war with France in 1793, the Duke fought in the Flanders campaigns and became Commander-in-Chief of the Army five years later. In 1809 he was accused of corruption on account of the practices of his mistress, Mary Ann Clark, who profited from her intimacy with the Commander-in-Chief by selling promotions to officers. The scandal forced him to resign for two years, but he was reinstated in 1811. He is remembered as having greatly improved the training of soldiers and provision for uniforms. Ironically he championed promotion on merit rather than patronage.

Following the death of his mother Queen Charlotte in 1818 he was made legal guardian of the now mad King George III. The King finally died in 1820 and the Duke became his elder brother's heir presumptive, much enjoying his importance at court. The extravagance of his brother's coronation much appealed to him and he optimistically decreed that his enthronement would be similarly lavish. In the autumn of 1826 he was afflicted by dropsy and early in the following year he died at the Duke of Rutland's house in Arlington Street. His body lay in state in St. James's Palace and was taken in procession to St. George's Chapel, Windsor, where his funeral took place.

Christie's. The Exceptional Sale 2018, London, 5 July 2018

Rubens painting to be auctioned at Stephan Welz & Co in Cape Town

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Sir Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish 1577 - 1640), Portrait of a Gentleman. Oil on oak panel 54 by 39,3cm.

JOHANNESBURG.- This exquisite portrait by the most influential Flemish Baroque artist Sir Peter Paul Rubens (1577 – 1640) depicts a gentleman in a crisp white ruff and black coat, with intricate black on black weaving on the shoulder and chest of the coat. The face of the sitter stands out against the muted greens on the background, the play of light and shade drawing one into the portrait. The technique is elegant and the face of the sitter seems to glows with life and a subtle humour. 

The oldest auction record uncovered for this oil on oak panel work is currently that of the Auction house Jovenau in Doornik in 1740 when the work was sold as a Portrait of a Man by Sir Peter Paul Rubens. During the intervening centuries the work was moved to London briefly, before returning to Germany, and, finally, travelling to South Africa. 

Between 1817 and 1917, as the work changed hands on auction, the identity of the artist was subject to debate as to whether it was a work by Rubens, or possibly by Frans Porbus the Younger. Following the sale at Munich Helbing Auction in 1896, where the portrait had been sold as a possible work by Porbus, it returned to the market in 1917 as a work by Rubens, being sold by the collector Oskar Skaller. 

This portrait was purchased by a German-Jewish doctor in 1925 at Kunsthandel Komter, Amsterdam, and has remained within the family to date. Following the purchase the doctor sought the advice of the eminent Dutch art historian Henk Peter Bremmer on this work and it was he who asserted the attribution of the work to Sir Peter Paul Rubens in Beeldende Kunst, volume 12 of that year. 

In 1927 art critics and historians Ludwig Burchard and Wilhelm von Bode confirmed this attribution in an article by Burchard and a co-signed letter to the owner, with Burchard believing the work to have been created, in his opinion, sometime between 1598 – the date of Rubens’ appointment to the Guild of Painters of Antwerp – and 1609 – the artist’s return to Antwerp from Italy following the death of his mother. 

Often, during patient consultations, the doctor would discuss state of affairs in Germany. During one fateful discussion the true extent of the current political situation and resurgence of National Socialism was made clear to him. Resolving to leave Germany the doctor took up the offer from one of his patients to secure his personal effects, including his extensive art collection, in order to facilitate his flight. All of the entrusted possessions were returned to the doctor upon escape from Germany before his journey to the southern hemisphere.

The doctor finally arrived in South Africa in 1931-32, resuming his practice once he had settled in Johannesburg. He went on to have a long and successful career within South African medicine, both as an innovative practitioner and passionate teacher.

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Sir Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish 1577 - 1640), Portrait of a Gentleman. Oil on oak panel 54 by 39,3cm.

Splendid Accessories of Nomadic Peoples: Mongolian, Muslim, and Tibetan Artifacts of the Qing Dynasty from the Museum Collection

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Lapis lazuli alms bowl and leather case - possibly Tibetan work, Qianlong imperial inscription dated to 1759, Qing dynasty, 18th century© National Palace Museum

 The Mongolian, Tibetan, and western Muslim territories of China are located in the central part of the Eurasian continent and geographically consist mostly of plateaus and basins. With its northern latitude and high terrain, the cold climate of the area yields unpredictable rainfall. Except for settlements along river valleys and oases, a nomadic economy has traditionally governed the way of life there. The inhabitants of this region are ethnically diverse as well, being mostly comprised of Mongolian, Uyghur, and Tibetan peoples. In terms of geography, religion, and history, their lifestyle therefore differs greatly from that of the Han Chinese with their agriculture-based economy, highlighting the unique art and culture of these nomadic groups.

Starting from the seventeenth century, the Manchu people in China's northeast expanded their territorial control west and south to establish the "Great Qing Empire." As dynastic rulers, the Manchu never gave up their ambition of playing a dominating role among tribes on the northern steppes, at the same time actively maintaining control of Tibetan peoples in the Kham-Tibetan plateau of the southwest. In addition to military conquest and political rule, the Qing dynasty also used marital alliances, religious beliefs, and tributary relations to extend and maintain its governance, hold various peoples together, and consolidate its authority.

This special exhibition focuses on artifacts related to imperial authority of the Qing dynasty and its interaction with Mongolian, Muslim, and Tibetan peoples. From the perspectives of material culture and anthropology, it explains the features of these groups and, at the same time, the unique characteristics and cultural contents of their art forms.

Esteemed Vessels of Food and Drink

Nomadism is a lifestyle of certain peoples often chosen in response to the natural conditions of the place where they live and usually involving the optimal use of limited resources. Following the customs and experiences they inherited, nomads move with their animals in keeping with the seasons. Livestock, such as horses, cattle, and sheep, is important to them, providing clothing, food, and transportation. Every part of the plants they encounter along the way is also utilized to make many of the things needed in life. These people often live in tent-like structures easy to erect and take apart, as vessels for food and drink are taken with them and not much else. Such basic necessities of life as wooden bowls and utensils, when given as presents, reflect their simple and practical values. The workmanship involved in such objects, however, is elegantly refined, amply demonstrating the maturity of arts and crafts among these nomads.

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 Birch-bark phoenix finial with gold inlay, Qing Court work, Qing dynasty, 18th-19th century© National Palace Museum

Birches are a tree species commonly found in northern temperate regions, whereas birch bark has been used by nomadic people to make objects such as house roofs and writing papers since ancient times. Birch bark, which is soft, flexible, light, and thin, had also been used to make the Gugu Guan (an oblong headdress covered with textiles) worn by aristocratic women during the Yuan dynasty. By examining the National Museum of Mongolia's collection of rare Yuan dynasty birch bark crowns (excavated from Yuan dynasty tombs) as well as the National Palace Museum's collection of Yuan dynasty empress and concubine portraits, visitors can gain insight into how birch bark had been used in the past. The birch-bark phoenix finial with gold inlay showcased here features a phoenix supported by a wooden frame on the inside and covered by birch bark on the outside. The crown, trailing edges of the wings, and feet of the phoenix as well as the cloud-shaped base of the artifact are decorated with gold leaves to make up the golden components, whereas the body and tail of the phoenix contain pearl inlays of varying sizes. The styles and designs of the phoenix are identical to those of the golden thread phoenix. The birch-bark phoenix finial with gold inlay had been commonly worn by Qing court empresses and concubines and is highly representative of the cultural characteristics of the nomadic people.

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Wood bowl and gilt iron case inlaid with turquoise, Tibetan work, Qianlong imperial inscription dated to 1786, Qing dynasty© National Palace Museum

Wood bowls are the utensils that best illustrate the Mongolian and Tibetan eating habits and can be used to drink tea, hold tsampa, and store food. In addition, wood bowls are light, durable, easy to carry and can be used to preserve the taste of food as well as prevent the heat of the food from burning the hands. Wood bowls are generally made from birches, Rhododendron roots, or roots from a variety of trees; however, the most precious wood bowls are made from parasitic plants (especially a type of tumor called "zan" that is parasitic in mugwort roots). Since the time of the Kangxi era, Tibetan people had often offered wood bowls in early spring as tributes to the Qing court and to wish them a prosperous new year. The Qing court commonly used wood bowls to drink milk tea, earning the container the name "milk bowl." The practice of using the container to drink milk continued through the Yongzheng era. According to the Imperial Workshop Archives, Kalon Khangchenné Sonam Gyalpo offered wood bowls to the Qing court. Similarly, the Dalai Lama offered a set of five small and large wood bowls. The wood bowl and gilt iron hollow round case inlaid with turquoise exhibited here features a metal bowl made of delicate, light, and precious materials and displaying distinct and contrasting threadlike patterns, making this artifact set an example of the treasures offered by Tibetan aristocrats to the Qing court.

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Gilt eating utensils, leather case, wood box, Russian work. Presented by the Torghut Ubashi Khan to the Qing court, Qianlong imperial inscription dated to 1771, Qing dynasty© National Palace Museum

The Torghuts, one of the subgroups of the Four Oirats, migrated westwards to the Volga River downstream river basin by the end of the sixteenth century. Faced with the threat of Russian tsars in the late-eighteenth century, the Torghuts embarked on a journey back home to the East, where they were welcomed and appeased by the Qing court. The Torghuts then settled in the Ili River region. In 1771, Khagan Ubashi Khan (1742-1775), head of the Torghut clan, and his people travelled to the Rehe Mountain Resort to pay their respects to Emperor Gaozong of Qing (i.e., the Qianlong Emperor), where they offered fine Kazakhstan horses and white eagles. The artifact exhibited here is a set of folk, spoon, and dagger, which are placed inside a leather case, offered by Ubashi Khan to Emperor Gaozong of Qing. The leather case is decorated with geometric floral designs and exemplifies the gorgeous and smooth Russian Rococo style. The center of the leather case contains two lines of Mongolian writing. The Qing court subsequently made a wood box to hold the aforementioned utensils and inscribed the box cover with words to explain the significance of this set of special artifacts.

Immersed in Tibetan Buddhism

Tibetan Buddhism traces its roots to an amalgamation of Indian Buddhism and the original Bon, an indigenous belief system in Tibet. Flourishing by the fifteenth century, Tibetan Buddhism became an important part of Mongolian and Tibetan thought and life, also coming to assert an influence on the Manchu people. Not only were Tibetan monasteries centers of religion, they also were vital focal points for local administration and the economy. For this reason, the tribute items sent by Tibetan lamas and nobility to the Qing dynasty court were always the finest in terms of quality. They invariably submitted Buddhist religious implements as gifts because of their constant reference to the Qing emperor in Tibetan diplomatic letters as "Manjusri," the Bodhisattva of Wisdom. The Qing emperors likewise paid homage to Tibetan Buddhism, demonstrating the high level of importance attached to its influence and the accompanying esteem that it earned as a result.

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Bone prayer beads. Presented by the Panchen Erdeni to the Qing court in 1780, Qing dynasty, 18th century. © National Palace Museum

Prayer beads, also called counting beads, are used as an aid in Buddhism, Islam, and Catholicism when reciting scriptures, saying incantations, and reading titles. The bone prayer beads shown here were offered by Lobsang Palden Yeshe (the 6th Panchen Lama) to Emperor Gaozong of Qing in 1780 when the emperor was 70 years of age. In July of the said year, the 6th Panchen Lama visited the Rehe Mountain Resort and stayed in the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery. Accordingly, the Qing court constructed the Xumi Fushou Temple. On the 6th and 24th day of the eighth month, Emperor Gaozong of Qing visited the temple to burn joss sticks. In 1751, the Qing court conferred political power to the 7th Dalai Lama, mandating that the Dalai Lama regularly go on pilgrimages and periodically visit China's capital city during the emperor's birthday. The 6th Panchen Lama was one of the three Dalai Lamas who visited the capital during the Qing dynasty, an event marked as a grand occasion at the time. The prayer beads exhibited here were made from human bones and contain beeswax, coral-made Buddha head beads, lapis lazuli Buddhist pagodas, turquoise, crystals, and gold and silver vajras gadas, exemplifying the solemnness and magnificence of Tibetan prayer beads in the eighteenth century. 

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Lapis lazuli alms bowl and leather case - possibly Tibetan work, Qianlong imperial inscription dated to 1759, Qing dynasty, 18th century© National Palace Museum.

The lapis lazuli alms bowl and leather case displayed here is bright in color, rounded in shape, and solemn in appearance. According to the records found on the leather case used to hold the alms bowl, the said bowl was a trophy taken from Dzungar people after they were defeated by the Qing army in 1755; the Dzungar people were surmised to have obtained such a bowl earlier in Tibet. A total four languages (i.e., Manchu alphabets, Chinese characters, Mongolian scripts, and Tibetan alphabets) inscribed by Emperor Gaozong of Qing can be found on the alms bowl. The Mongolian Dzungar people, whose capital city was Ili and who believed in Tibetan Buddhism, emerged in the seventeenth century. They once invaded Tibet and ruled Lhasa and Tibet for three years (i.e., 1717–1720). In 1741, Emperor Gaozong of Qing bestowed an iron bowl upon the Mongolian Jebtsundamba (currently in the collection of the Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan), which shares an identical design with the National Palace Museum's iron bowl with an old crane feather design (presented at the current exhibition). The iron bowl with an old crane feather design involved plating the colors of bluish purple on iron. In the Imperial Workshop Archives of the Yongzheng Era, a number of records on the making of colored spoons and chopsticks with an old crane feather design can be found. Therefore, the lapis lazuli alms bowl and leather case may have been fabricated by using the lapis lazuli (because of its unique color) and by imitating the design of the iron bowl with an old crane feather design.

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Silver mandala with multicolored khatas, Tibetan work, Presented by the Tuguan Hutuktu, et al., to the Qing court, Qing dynasty, 19th century. © National Palace Museum

The silver mandala with multicolored khatas was presented by Tuguan Hutuktu (1839–1894), the 6th Lama of the Gönlung Jampa Ling Monastery (in Qinghai) who stayed in China's capital city, to Empress Dowager Cixi on her birthday. The mandala symbolizes the Buddhist world; the surface of the mandala was engraved with wave-like text, whereas the center of the mandala contains a four-story square platform. Mount Sumeru, which represents the center of the universe, is found in the axis, whereas Mount Akravada-Parvata is observed covering the circumference of the surface. On the four sides of the mountains are city gates, which represent the four continents of Pūrva-videha, Jambudvīpa, Aparagodānīya, and Uttarakuru (the continents are represented by the symbols of circle, triangle, moon-like shape, and square, respectively). On the surface of the sea is a circle of garden stonecrop, whereas on the four sides of the sea are various objects (i.e., a moon, treasure bowl, sun, and ox) used to worship the Buddha. The outer edges of the sides of the mandala were embedded with corals and turquoise in lianzhu (connected circle) patterns, in which vajras gadas and lotus petals were used as decorations. In the center are rolled leave patterns separated from garden stonecrop; the center of the rolled leaf patterns shows a cross-shaped design comprising corals and turquoise beads. The patterns and workmanship of this artifact are awe-inspiring and embody a hint of Chinese styles, making it different from other Tibetan artifacts created during the eighteenth century. 

Conversing in Coral and Turquoise

Coral and turquoise are products of nature that have long been appreciated by Mongolian and Tibetan peoples, who used these precious materials as inlay on gold and silver wares or to complement pearls and amber for colorful and magnificent forms of personal ornamentation. For important ceremonial occasions, such jewelry was adorned in layers, creating a unique aesthetic trait in the culture of these nomadic peoples. Their coral was sourced from the Mediterranean Sea and the turquoise mined in Iran. Of significant value, these materials came to signify the status and economic clout of the person wearing them. Rare and semi-precious gems of coral, crystal, and clamshell not only were concrete symbols of Buddhism most excellent, the native Tibetan religion of Bon, with its reverence for nature, came to imbue them with protective powers as well. Thus, personal ornaments decorated with these gems served as symbols of auspiciousness, good fortune, and social status, becoming a unique image of beauty of the Mongolian and Tibetan peoples.

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Silver hat finial with coral and turquoise inlay, Tibetan work, Qing dynasty, 18th century. © National Palace Museum

In Tibet, both men and women prefer wearing gemstones as personal accessories. The most common materials used to make such gemstones are corals, turquoise, and beeswax. Most of the corals in Tibet come from the Mediterranean Sea, the corals of which come from regions such as India and Kashmir. Tibet produces some of its turquoise; however, such turquoise is relatively greener in color and features brown patterns. The silver hat finial with coral and turquoise inlay presented here is relatively greener in color; thus, it may have been fabricated using local Tibet turquoise. Hat top accessories generally reflect social status. The hat top of the artifact exhibited here is made of partially gold-plated silver. The uppermost gemstone was lost, and coral beads are found between the turquoise and the beeswax. The bottommost layer contains petal-shaped turquoise surrounded by a circle of coral beads. Regarding the silver stand in the middle, it contains beeswax-made, melon-shaped beads at the top. The said beads are accentuated by coral beads of all sizes above and below them. The base of the artifact was hammered to create the desired shape, in which hammer marks are faintly discernible. The gilt is light in color and the bottom of the artifact is equipped with a screw-shaped lock presumably used to enable users to secure the artifact to hats. This artifact is simple and plain and is the work of local Tibetan artists.

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Pearl hat with turquoise inlay, Tibetan work, Qing dynasty, 18th century. © National Palace Museum

During the Qing dynasty, Tibetan aristocrats had been conferred the titles of duke, jasagh, and taiji; such titles were subsequently incorporated into the Qing court's administrative system. Aristocrats of different social statuses and/or from different regions wore different hats. During festivals, female aristocrats in the Lhasa region wore pearl or coral caps. The said caps feature a triangular base that is covered with pulu on the first layer and stone beads on the second layer. Aristocrats of even higher social statuses wore pearl hats on top of the caps. The hats are made of wood and covered with layers of small connected pearls as well as scattered turquoise, the last of which is used as an embellishment. The top of the hats contains decorated turquoise with gold inlay, whereas the inside of the hats is coated with red paint, making the hats heavy and gorgeous. In addition to wearing pearl caps and accessories, the aristocrats regularly wear large turquoise earrings joined with their braids in front of their ears. Furthermore, they wear ga'u (a Buddhist container) in front of their chest together with strings of pearl ornaments, allowing them to exude a sense of Tibetan-styled prestige, elegance, and beauty.

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Black velvet hair cuffs with coral and pearl inlay, Mongolian work, Qing dynasty, 18th century. © National Palace Museum

These braid covers, referred to by the Qing court as "black velvet hair cuffs," are cylindrical in shape and can be used to encapsulate hair. To hold the tubes up, leather is inserted into the two ends of the tubes as support. Outside, coral beads are arranged into ring-shaped ribbons. The artifact was identified by the researchers of the National Museum of Mongolia as a device used by Torghut women. The velvet hair cuffs are made in black because black is a symbol of good luck for the Torghut people. Mongolian braid ornaments and hats are remarkably unique, the most well-known of which is the twin high-arched, cow horn-shaped braids worn by Khalkha women. Such braids are decorated with various hairpins, whereas those that lie on the shoulders are adorned with gemstone-made cuffs. At present, hair cuff outer layer restoration involves adding a layer of protective crepeline, which is a type of markedly fine silk commonly used in the preservation and restoration of fabrics. The National Palace Museum's restoration department has exerted a great deal of effort to restore the velvet cuffs, in which black crepeline was selected for the black velvets before sewing it into cuffs. The cuffs are subsequently utilized to encapsulate the velvets for protection and support.

Treasures Transcending Borders

The western Muslim regions of China are located at the confluence of Europe and Asia, being home to ethnically and linguistically diverse groups of peoples, including Kazakhs, Tajiks, Uzbeks, and Uyghurs all co-existing at the same time. Located at a vital point along the Silk Route, it was a place where Mediterranean, Islamic, and Indian cultures converged by means of trade and commerce over an extended period of time. Both the movement of peoples and circulation of their art techniques enjoyed free passage in this region transcending borders, forming a mix of cultures. In the Yuan dynasty, the Mongols were able to connect the great civilizations of East and West, and later the Manchu in the Qing dynasty assumed control over Inner Asia, reopening this passage in the west once more. Consequently, the delicate metal wares of nomadic peoples and the aesthetics of Islamic jades and precious stones appeared as far away as the Forbidden City in Beijing, injecting Qing dynasty art with new vitality.

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Lace veil with tassels, Work of the Muslim regions, Presented from Yengisar in 1779, Qing dynasty, 18th century. © National Palace Museum

This lace veil is an item used in Tajik women's wedding. The lace veil, weaved in a rather unique way, features a hollow square added with silk threads to produce geometric patterns. The lace veil is one of the few surviving works of such designs from the eighteenth century. The upper edge of the veil was embroidered with guipure embroidery, one side of which comprises grass-patterned red velvet strips in gold silk threads, and the other side of which contains flower-patterned blue fabric strips in silk threads. The aforementioned embroidery techniques and designs are common in Central Asia. The lace veil is attached with two sets of bands, one set of which consists of a red cotton thread decorated with a silver silk thread knot, and the other is made up of a gold silk thread decorated with a pearl knot and a gemstone pendant with gold inlay. For the latter, gold pearl-based geometric patterns were employed to form its golden accessories, which were embedded with red and green gemstones, exemplifying a typical Islamic style. This veil was made in Yengisar, a city under the administration of Kashgar, which was a gathering place west of China linked with the northern, central, and southern routes of the Silk Road in ancient times. Trading between countries in Central Asia bloomed during the time of the Silk Road, and the lace exhibited here truthfully exemplifies the multicultural elements observed along the Silk Road.

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 Gold aigrette with pearl and gem inlay, Work of the Muslim regions, Presented from Kashgar in 1770, Qing dynasty, 18th century. © National Palace Museum

The Qing dynasty wooden box used to hold the gold aigrette with pearl and gem inlay shown here is written with the characters "gold–jade jigha," where jigha may have been the Chinese pronunciation of the Persian word for the feather headdress found on the headscarves worn by Indian and Islamic aristocrats or royal families. According to the "Inspection Report of the Committee for the Disposition of the Qing Imperial Possessions," the gold aigrette with pearl and gem inlay was offered by Kashgar to the Qing court in 1770. The roots of the feathers found on this headdress consist of jade-made tubes. The center of the headdress is a circular flower, whereas the two sides of the feathers are adorned with a series of round gemstones that progressively diminish in size. The end of feather hangs down on one side and contains a single gemstone. Such a design is identical to the accessories found on Islamic headscarves. The bottom of the headdress, also decorated with gemstones, is attached with loosely spread gold leaves. The two sides of the headdress are equipped with a golden hook that can be fixated to hats. Behind the feathers are two long crests. The feather headdress, initially worn only by aristocrats, took on different forms after the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. New complex or altered designs of the headdress caused it to deviate from its original purpose (i.e., used as a symbol of social status) to one that focused on the pursuit of exquisiteness. Based on the craftsmanship and style of this artifact, it is surmised to have been an imitation of Islamic-styled Altishahr works.

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Gold overlay aigrette with pearl and gem inlay, Work of the Muslim regions or the Mughal Empire, Qing dynasty, Early 19th century. © National Palace Museum

This magnificent accessory, called gold overlay aigrette with pearl and gem inlay, is a clear embodiment of Islamic culture. The artifact holds numerous thin, long golden branches that extend outwards from the central column. The top of the column is a pink tourmaline featuring a design that is reminiscent of the cluster of upright feather tassels found on kings' headscarves in Islamic culture post-eighteenth century. In addition, the beads and red and green gemstones embedded on the central column demonstrate colors, aesthetics, and inlay and string decoration techniques that mirror those of the Mughal Empire. The Islamic-styled headdresses found in the collection of the Qing court may have been offered by Altishahr, a region comprising the Tarim Basin as well as the Southern Circuits of Tian Shan at the time. The said region includes modern-day Afghanistan and a part of Kyrgyzstan. In the early nineteenth century, merchants of the Khanate of Kokand controlled the import and export trades of Central Asia as well as those of Northern and Southern Circuits of Tian Shan. Because of geographical vicinity and cultural similarity, Islamic culture-related artifacts were remarkably common in Altishahr at the time, contributing to some of its artifact masterpieces being subsequently sent to the Qing court.

Rare coral necklace sells for £36,830 at Ewbank's Auctions

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Formerly the property of Louisa Molyneux-Berry and her husband Henry Blayds Molyneux, grandson of Thomas Molyneux, mayor of Liverpool and gentleman of Newsham House LiverpoolOnce reputed to be the largest in the world, a 605.8 gramme coral necklace sold for £36,830 (Estimate £5,000-8000) at Ewbank’s Auctions of Surrey on June 20Courtesy Ewbank's Auctions

SEND MARSH.- This rare coral necklace – once thought to be the largest of its kind in the world – has sold for £36,830 at auction. 

Expected to take £5,000 and £8,000, the huge price came after a European agent thought to be bidding for a Chinese buyer in the room fought off competition at Ewbank’s Auctions of Send Marsh, Surrey.

The 605.8 gramme necklace of graduating beads was exhibited at The International Fisheries Exhibition in 1883, staged at the Royal Horticultural Society grounds in South Kensington, and won a bronze. At the time of the exhibition, the necklace was reputed to be the largest coral bead necklace in the world. It sold with its original paperwork and envelope from the exhibition. 

This scientific, cultural, and animal exhibition was open in South Kensington, London, between May 12 and October 31, 1883, and was the largest special event held in the world to that date. 

Exhibitors from throughout world bought examples of all sea life, a special section of coral contained the necklace, along with the coral collection of Victorian travel writer Lady Anna Brassey. 

Also sold from the same collection were two other coral pieces: a large Georgian coral cross dating to 1824 and a 19th Century coral and gold brooch, which went to different buyers. 

These three items were formerly the property of Louisa Molyneux-Berry and her husband Henry Blayds Molyneux, grandson of Thomas Molyneux, mayor of Liverpool and gentleman of Newsham House Liverpool. 

Ewbank’s jewellery specialist Andrea Machen commented; “Many organic gems have recently increased in value. Coral is, of course, now protected but in the 18th and 19th century it was considered the perfect jewellery for daytime wear, and the fact that it can be carved meant that some of the most skilled jewellers fashioned it. 

Before Queen Victoria made black the choice colour for mourning, coral was used in sentimental jewellery to remember the departed. It was also presented to brides and given on the birth of a baby to ward off evil spirits and later used in baby’s rattles.” 

The auction also saw a gold and turquoise insect brooch, which featured in two James Bond films, take £3800. The brooch, shown here, was worn by Miss Moneypenny, played by Lois Maxwell, in the wedding scene in the 1969 film, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, and again in the first office scene of the 1983 Bond film Octopussy.

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A gold and turquoise insect brooch, wings set with diamonds, ruby eyes, and polished turquoise stone body; featured in two James Bond films. Estimate £2,000-4000. Sold for £3800. Courtesy Ewbank's Auctions

'Porcelain and Painting' at Hong Kong Heritage Museum

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The Scent of Peony. Painted by Chao Shao-an. Not dated. Dish, enamels on porcelain, Hong Kong Heritage Museum collection. Photo: Courtesy Hong Kong Heritage Museum

HONG KONG - Friendship is the close relation between two persons as determined by time and place. The close friendship of Chao Shao-an and Yang Shanshen, two masters of the Lingnan School of painting, brought about not only the meeting of minds but also led to the creation of interesting works of art.

Both Chao and Yang settled in Hong Kong in the 1940s, and they often met together in the Lingnan Art Studio, and they have spent their leisure and created joint paintings. When they made friends with the owner of the Yuet Tung China Works, Tso Wing-shui, they tried their hands at painting on porcelain using their own artistic style. This exhibition features their joint works on paper and on porcelain, selected from private collections which remain lesser known. Visitors will see how the two masters carried out their artistic dialogue in these works, and how they brought their own signature style from works on paper into works on porcelain.

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 Prawn. Painted by Yang Shanshen, 1963. Dish, enamels on porcelain, Private Collection. Photo: Courtesy Hong Kong Heritage Museum

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Coconut and Vine. Painted by Chao Shao-an and Yang Shanshen, 1954. Ink and colour on paper. Private Collection. Photo: Courtesy Hong Kong Heritage Museum

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PomegranatePainted by Chao Shao-an, 1970. Dish, enamels on porcelain, Hong Kong Heritage Museum collection. Photo: Courtesy Hong Kong Heritage Museum

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Insect in moonlightPainted Chao Shao-an and Yang Shanshen. Not dated. Dish, enamels on porcelain, Hong Kong Heritage Museum collection. Photo: Courtesy Hong Kong Heritage Museum

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Willow and Two PigeonsPainted by Chao Shao-an and Yang Shanshen, 1954. Ink and colour on paper, Private Collection Photo: Courtesy Hong Kong Heritage Museum

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Cat and ButterflyPainted by Chao Shao-an and Yang Shanshen, 1954. Ink and colour on paper, Private Collection. Photo: Courtesy Hong Kong Heritage Museum

Getty Museum opens major survey of 100 years of fashion photography

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Yohji Yamamoto, Autumn/Winter 1995 (detail), 1995. David Sims (British, born 1966). Chromogenic print, 88.9 x 71.1 cm.

LOS ANGELES, CA.- At their core, fashion photographs are made for consumption in magazines and advertising. They are intended to arouse desire in viewers, whether it be for beauty, style, or even the trendiest lip shade or haircut. To capture attention, fashion photographs perpetually shift style or approach in the face of social, political, and economic change. Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography, 1911-2011, on view June 26-October 21, 2018 at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Getty Center, is the most comprehensive exploration of this phenomenon yet undertaken, featuring more than 160 fashion photographs alongside a selection of costumes, illustrations, magazine covers, videos and advertisements. Drawn from the Getty Museum’s photographs collection as well as significant loans, the exhibition presents the work of more than eighty photographers, illuminating the innovative aesthetic and technological changes in the field. 

Once overlooked by collectors and museums because of its commercial origins, fashion photography is now recognized as having produced some of the most creative work of the twentieth century, transcending its illustrative function to yield images of great artistic quality and sophistication,” says Timothy Potts, director of the J. Paul Getty Museum. “Museums, however, have been slow to embrace this genre. The time seems ripe to present a sweeping overview of the finest examples of fashion photography produced over the past century.” 

The exhibition features the work of such renowned fashion photographers as Richard Avedon, Lillian Bassman, Guy Bourdin, Erwin Blumenfeld, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Hiro, Inez & Vinoodh, Peter Lindbergh, Man Ray, Helmut Newton, Nick Knight, Gordon Parks, Irving Penn, Herb Ritts, Edward Steichen, and Tim Walker as well as lesser-known but influential artists such as Corinne Day, Gleb Derujinsky, Toni Frissell, and Kourken Pakchanian. 

In 2010, we began working to strengthen the Museum’s collection of fashion photographs in the hopes of creating a foundation on which we could build a groundbreaking exhibition,” says Paul Martineau, associate curator of photographs at the Getty Museum and curator of the exhibition. “I continue to be intrigued by the ability of some fashion photographs to transcend their original commercial function in order to be considered true works of fine art.” 

The exhibition opens with a key moment in the emergence of modern fashion photography when, in 1911, French publisher Lucien Vogel challenged photographer Edward Steichen to create the first artistic fashion photographs. Before then, photographs were often too realistic to attract a public familiar with the highly idealized images popularized by illustrators such as Erté and Paul Iribe. During the first two decades of the twentieth century there was a considerable shift in women’s fashion, moving away from tightly corseted dresses to the more comfortable, natural, looser fitting clothing of innovators such as Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel. On view will be early photographs by Steichen and Baron Adolf de Meyer, two artists who were responsible for creating the foundations of modern fashion photography at the behest of Vogue magazine mogul Condé Nast. 

Photographs produced during the Great Depression and World War II reveal how political and economic changes influenced the fashion industry. During the Depression, top style magazines continued to emphasize luxury and glamour, offering an escape from the harsh realities of the period. During World War II, fashion magazines tried to remain relevant by adopting a positive, can-do approach to life. In step with war-time rationing, fashion became simpler and used less fabric, and photographers adopted a more restrained approach. The exhibition includes several examples of “patriotic chic,” a style of dress or representation that underscored national values. Keep the Home Fires Burning (1941) by Louise Dahl-Wolfe features a model in a simple slip turned away from the camera and staring into the fireplace, apparently waiting for her husband to return from the war. 

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Model Wearing a Gown by Augustabernard, 1936, Man Ray, gelatin silver print. The J. Paul Getty Museum. © Man Ray Trust ARS-ADAGP

The 1950s marked what many consider to be the Golden Age of fashion photography, with a return to glamour through designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, and Jacques Griffe. Richard Avedon and Irving Penn brought the elegant dresses of these designers to life with different but equally visually arresting approaches to their work. Penn dominated studio-based fashion photography while Avedon excelled at showing models on location and in action. Paired with bold visual treatments in magazines, work by these and other artists delivered fashion photography to an aspirational public emerging from decades of war and hardship. 

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Renée, “The New Look of Dior,” Place de la Concorde, Paris, August, 1947, negative 1947, print 1978; Richard Avedon, gelatin silver print. The Richard Avedon Foundation, New York. Copyright © The Richard Avedon Foundation

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Woman’s Dress, “Abandon,” Fall/Winter 1948, House of Dior, Christian Dior, wool plain weave (crepe). Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Gift of Mrs. Laura-Lee W. Woods. Photo © Museum Associates/LACMA

The 1960s and 70s were a time when youth culture, the sexual revolution, and later the women’s liberation movement, were catalysts for new possibilities in fashion photography. William Klein photographed his models in urban settings using a 35mm camera, perfecting a gritty street style that was celebrated for its surprising vitality. Leading designers of the mid-1960s ushered in a variety of fanciful new looks such as hippie, mod, gypsy, and space age. Neal Barr’s 1966 photograph of Dianne Newman captures the zeitgeist in a mini-dress with patterned tights, bug-eye glasses, and a cropped haircut – all shot from a low angle to give the image a slightly unbalanced, psychedelic aura.  

In the 1970s, ready-to-wear clothing lines by Halston, Anne Klein, and Yves Saint Laurent were coveted by women who had newly entered the workforce and were attempting to balance their jobs and families. Photographers such as Arthur Elgort endeavored to show women going about their everyday routines, and hired models who were relatable, natural, and health-conscious. Others such as Helmut Newton and Chris von Wagenheim challenged propriety with aggressive, sexualized images that often turned the tables on traditional gender stereotypes. The 1960s and 70s also saw increased diversity, with African American models such as Donyale Luna and Beverly Johnson being chosen to grace the covers of top style magazines for the first time. Johnson’s historic 1974 Vogue cover will be on view.  

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Untitled, for Charles Jourdan, Spring 1977, negative 1977, printed later; Guy Bourdin, chromogenic print. The Estate of Guy Bourdin, courtesy Louise Alexander Gallery. Image copyright The Guy Bourdin Estate 2018, courtesy Louise Alexander Gallery

Fashion photography of the 1980s and 90s embraced the athletic female body, the display of male sexuality, the birth of the supermodel, and the introduction of darker motifs in the genre. The 1980s saw the rise of corporate power dressing, the fitness trend, and the ascension of Italian designers such as Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani. Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber portrayed well-built male models in ways that emphasized their sexuality, forever changing how men were represented in fashion and advertising. Beauty and power were also exemplified by a new group of “supermodels,” who were offered enormous salaries for walking runways all over the world. Ritts is known for creating one of the most famous photographs of this time – the seemingly nude embrace of supermodels Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patitz, Stephanie Seymour, and Christy Turlington.  

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Fred with Tires, Hollywood, 1984, Herb Ritts, gelatin silver print. The J. Paul Getty Museum. Gift of Herb Ritts Foundation. © Herb Ritts Foundation

In the 1990s, an economic downturn, an increase in drug use, and the incorporation of the Seattle-based grunge movement by the fashion industry gave birth to “heroin chic,” which presented stick-thin models such as Kate Moss in sickly looking makeup. The raw, overexposed style of Corinne Day, who shot unkempt models in shabby environments was not only a source of inspiration for this new style, but also the antithesis of the over-the-top glamour and excess of the previous decade.  

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Kate Moss, Times Square, New York, negative 1994, print 2017; Glen Luchford, gelatin silver print. The J. Paul Getty Museum. Gift of Glen and Tanya Luchford. © Glen Luchford

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Sveta for Hussein Chalayan, 2000, Sarah Moon, carbon print. The J. Paul Getty Museum.© Sarah Moon

The exhibition concludes by presenting a diverse selection of contemporary photographs that reveals some of the ongoing possibilities of fashion photography, and the digital tools that have reshaped the notion of what—technically and conceptually—a fashion photograph is. The growth of street-style fashion blogs such as Scott Schuman’s The Sartorialist (2005) and global internet picture-sharing applications such as Instagram (2010) and Snapchat (2011) are reshaping a rapidly evolving industry, providing aspiring and established fashion photographers with new outlets for their work. 

My hope is that this sweeping introduction to fashion photography will not only educate and delight our visitors, but also inspire new scholarly inquiry,” adds Martineau. “Long overlooked, the gradual integration of fashion photographs into museum collections will make it easier for these pictures to be evaluated in terms of the larger history of the medium of photography.” 

Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography, 1911-2011 is on view June 26-October 21, 2018 at the J. Paul Getty Museum, Getty Center. The exhibition is curated by Paul Martineau, associate curator of photographs at the J. Paul Getty Museum. A related publication by Paul Martineau will be released by Getty Publications in spring 2018. Related events TBD.

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The Dress-Lamp Tree, England, 2002, Tim Walker, chromogenic print. Steven and Catherine Fink. © Tim Walker

Lucian Freud painting becomes the most valuable work by the artist sold in London

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Lot 6. Lucian Freud (1922-2011), Portrait on a White Cover, oil on canvas, 116.5 by 143 cm. 45 7/8 by 56 1/4 in. Executed in 2002-03. Estimate: £17,000,000-20,000,000Sold for £22,464,300. Courtesy Sotheby's.

LONDON.- One of Lucian Freud’s last great nudes, Portrait on a White Cover sold hours ago in Sotheby’s London’s saleroom for £22.5million / $29.8 million, making it the most valuable painting by the artist ever sold in London. The previous highest price for a London auction of the artist’s work was £16.1 million set by Pregnant Girl at Sotheby’s in February 2016. 

A late masterpiece, Portrait on a White Cover, painted when the artist was 80 years old, represents the culmination of Freud’s lifelong engagement with the reclining nude. Alongside the self-portrait, the reclining nude was the defining leitmotif of Freud’s career. Across sixty years of painting, innumerable mutations of painterly style, and a multitude of sitters, he returned to this challenging subject time and again. Portrait on a White Cover sits at the pinnacle of this endeavour. 

Portrait on a White Cover depicts Sophie Lawrence, who worked for Tate publishing and was spotted by Freud whilst preparing for his Tate retrospective in 2002. This is her only known portrait and there is little written about her in the literature surrounding the artist’s work. Ahead of this sale, she shared her story of sitting for the artist: “I wouldn’t have done it for anyone else, but he is one of the best artists who has ever lived. It was incredibly intimidating, but he made me feel at ease. He was very good at building a rapport with people. I was very fond of him.” 

The artist painted only three further reclining nudes before his death in 2011. The painting which immediately preceded Portrait on a White Cover, Naked Portrait 2002 - depicting Kate Moss pregnant - set a new auction record for the artist at £7.3 million when it appeared at auction in 2005. Four of the top five prices for the artist at auction are for reclining nudes.

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Oliver Barker fielding bids during Sotheby's Contemporary Art Evening Sale, June 2018. Courtesy Sotheby's.


Sandra Conan Ltd at Masterpiece London 2018

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SANDRA CRONAN LTD. 17th century cruciform pendant. Courtesy Sandra Conan Ltd.

A 17th century pendant in the form of a cross. Carved gold on the reverse, silver on the front, set with petal shaped rose cut diamonds. Each point of the cross is set with a garnet engraved with a different devotional scene, and enamelled. From below upwards and across the settings represent: 1. The winged bull of St. Luke with scroll ( signifying writing) 2. The dove of the Holy Spirit or as there is a flowering wand it could be the symbol of St. Joseph 3. At the intersection IHS ( monogram of the Holy Name ) with three nails, badge of the Jesuits 4. The angel with scroll for St. Matthew 5. The winged lion with scroll of St. Mark 6. The eagle with scroll for St. John 7. The twin palms crowned for the victory of Christ the King.

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SANDRA CRONAN LTD. Belle Epoque diamond pendant, American, circa 1905Courtesy Sandra Conan Ltd. 

A Belle Epoque pendant of elongated design; pavé diamond set throughout. A bow suspends the decoratively pierced platinum drop which is fully articulated and centres on a substantial old cut diamond, and a further large old cut at the bottom. Millegraine edged platinum setting, American, circa 1905.

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East Indian Ink Well, by Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & CoCourtesy Sandra Conan Ltd.

An exquisite Inkwell, fashioned from an intricately carved ivory tusk on a decorative solid gold base featuring marching elephants, designed by Paulding Farnham. Labelled by Tiffany as The East Indian Ink Well, composed of repoussé gold and carved ivory. This piece has an extraordinary provenance; it was manufactured to exhibit at the 1904 St. Louis Purchase Exhibition, or ‘World’s Fair’ as a demonstration of the skill and artistry of Paulding Farnham and Tiffany & Co. Furthermore, the inkwell was photographed and featured in the October 1904 edition of Town & Country magazine, as a highlight of the Exhibition.

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An asymmetrical jabot pin with a carved angel skin coral Greek mask drop, and platinum set diamonds. Cartier New York, signed and numbered, circa 1910. Courtesy Sandra Conan Ltd.

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 A pair of diamond drop earrings with long articulated graduating baguette cut diamond tops leading to detachable pavé set diamond ball drops, mounted in platinum. American, circa 1960.

Stand B34 at Masterpiece London 2018 (28 June - 04 July 2018).

Beauty and mystery at Bonhams Antiquities sale

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LONDON.- An arresting Roman marble portrait head of a man, possibly a priest, leads Bonhams Antiquities sale in London on Thursday 5 July. It is estimated at £60,000-80,000. 

The marble portrait dates from between the 1st Century B.C. and the early 1st Century A.D. The subject is completely bald – a rarity in sculptures of this period – and the reason for that may lie in his vocation. The scalp gives the appearance of having been shaved, which suggests the man might have been a priest of the cult of Isis, which was popular in Rome at the time. Priests of Isis were known to shave their heads as an act of worship. A hole in the crown for the insertion of a separate head-covering – now lost – adds weight to the theory. 

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Lot 82. A Roman marble male portrait head, Circa 1st Century B.C.-early 1st Century A.D.; 42cm high. Estimate £ 60,000 - 80,000 (€ 68,000 - 91,000). Photo: Bonhams. 

Probably a priest, the face powerfully sculpted with large, lidded, unarticulated eyes set deeply beneath prominent brows, a strong, straight nose and pronounced cheekbones, the thin lips closed, the square chin slightly dimpled, with naturalistic wrinkled brow and creased cheeks, the ears sculpted in high relief from the head, a circular hole at the crown of the bald head, probably for insertion of a separately-made head-covering, the back of the head and neck more roughly hewn, the large tenon remaining.

Provenance: Mr Charles Probst, Galerie de la Corraterie, Geneva, 2000. 
Swiss art market. 
with Bernard Blondeel Kunsthandel, Antwerp, 2005. 
Private collection, Belgium.

Note: See F. Johansen, Roman Portraits I, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, 1994, p. 74-5, no. 25 for another bald portrait head with similar treatment of wrinkles, lips, and ears sculpted in high relief, dated to the early Augustan period. The hole at the crown of the head was evidently made in antiquity, probably for the insertion of a separately-made head-covering, a feature which would also explain the cursory rendering of the back of the head. Having the head covered in such a manner would characterise the subject as being in the act of sacrificing, and therefore probably a priest; for a comparable priest, see ibid., Roman Portraits II, p. 58-9, no. 17, and Vatican Museums inv. 1751, though in both these examples the head-covering is rendered in the same piece of marble. 

The subject of this sculpture is not just bald, but seems to have a fully shaved head. Though completely bald portraits of private individuals from this period are known (see C. C. Vermeule, Greek and Roman Sculpture in America, Berkeley, 1981, no. 232), this fairly unusual element combined with the aforementioned head-covering raises another hypothesis. The practice of shaving one's head is believed to have been an act of worship undertaken by priests of the cult of Isis, which enjoyed popularity in Rome from the late Republican period onwards, notwithstanding a brief period of suspicion about their activities during the reigns of Augustus and Tiberius; cf. a portrait head of a priest of Isis in the Museo Archeologico al Teatro Romano in Verona, which also has a circular hole at the crown. However, the key identifying feature of a priest of Isis is a scar usually visible on the upper forehead or crown of the head (see S. Wood, 'Isis, Eggheads, and Roman Portraiture', JARCE, vol. 24, 1987, p. 123-141 for discussion of the portrait iconography of Isis priests). No such scar is discernible here, and so this attribution must remain uncertain. See also Museo Nazionale Romano, inv. no. 126368 for another shaven-headed male portrait, similar in countenance to the present lot and dating to the late Republican period, and also at times suggested to be a priest of Isis, despite lacking a prominent scar.

The sale also features a private Swiss collection of terracottas, and a European private collection of rare Near Eastern works. Two beautiful Piravend bronze idols from the latter were once owned by André Derain who, with Henri Matisse, was the co-founder of the hugely influential early 20th century art movement, Les Fauves. The figures are said to have been a gift from one of Derain’s sitters, his sometime lover Domenica Guillaume – the wife of his art dealer, Paul Guillaume. Derain’s striking Portrait of Madame Paul Guillaume with a large hat is one of the highlights of the Musée de l'Orangerie in Paris.  

The Piravend figures – one male, one female – were made in Western Iran during the 9th – 8th centuries B.C., but little else is known about them. They may have been deities, and the female figure, who appears to be pregnant, could have been a fertility symbol. They were bought at the sale of Derain’s estate in 1956, and have been in the same family ever since. The male figure is estimated at £20,000-25,000, and the female figure at £15,000-20,000. 

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Lot 124. A Piravend bronze female idol, Western Iran, circa 9th-8th Century B.C.; 8.5cm high Estimate £ 15,000 - 20,000 (€ 17,000 - 23,000). Photo: Bonhams.  

With slender legs and short torso with articulated breasts and rounded stomach, the arms outstretched, the oversized head tear-shaped with circular convex eyes with encircling rings set beneath arching brows, large protruding aquiline nose, short, straight mouth and pointed chin, with two horn-like extensions at the crown of the head, a spherical protrusion between.

Provenance: André Derain (1880-1954) collection, Paris, reputedly acquired from Mme Guillaume.
Collection André Derain, vente après décès (premiere vente); Hotel Drouot, Paris, 9-10-11 May 1955, lot 32.
with Françoise Lepage, Paris.
Private collection, Europe, acquired from the above in 1956.

Note: For closely related figures, though depicting males, see The Pomerance Collection of Ancient Art, Brooklyn Museum, 1966, p.35, no. 36 and D. von Bothmer (ed.), Glories of the Past. Ancient Art from the Shelby White and Leon Levy Collection, New York, 1990, p.53, no. 38. In the latter it is noted that these diminutive statuettes probably represent deities, due to their horns, which signify elevation above mortal beings. The present lot's rounded stomach may signify pregnancy, and thus suggest a function as a fertility idol. Beyond these conjectures, however, little is know about the use of, and belief system around, these carefully modelled figures

André Derain was a French artist famous for his uncompromising use of pure color. In 1898, while attending engineering school, he met another up-and-coming artist, Henri Matisse, with whom he began creating art. Their style, based on the use of bright, pure colours, was called Fauvist, or 'wild beasts': Derain is considered a key founder of this new style. In his later career Derain developed his creativity through different styles and mediums, including woodcuts and sculpture.

By repute, this Piravend bronze was donated to the artist by a Mme Guillaume, probably the same woman as the Madame Paul Guillaume, later Madame Jean Walter, painted by André Derain in 1928-1929. The striking portrait is now in the Musée de l'Orangerie in Paris.

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Lot 125. A Piravend bronze male idol, Western Iran, circa 9th-8th Century B.C.; 10cm high. Estimate £ 20,000 - 25,000 (€ 23,000 - 28,000). Photo: Bonhams.  

Standing on short legs, the rectangular body with male genitalia and pronounced nipples, the arms extended upwards, the triangular face with circular eyes, large protruding beak nose, round cheeks and small ears, wearing a twisted belt around his waist, an attachment loop at rear.

Provenance: André Derain (1880-1954) collection, Paris, reputedly acquired from Mme Guillaume.
Collection André Derain, vente après décès (premiere vente); Hotel Drouot, Paris, 9-10-11 May 1955, lot 31. 
with Françoise Lepage, Paris. 
Private collection, Europe, acquired from the above in June 1956. 

Note: Piravend bronzes take their name from the village in western Iran where the first examples were said to have been discovered. Cf. O.W. Muscarella, Ancient Art. The Norbert Schimmel Collection, Mainz, 1974, no. 147.
Bonhams Head of Antiquities Francesca Hickin said: “The sale offers a wide range of objects from many regions and periods. The Swiss collection of terracottas – competitively estimated - is of very high quality; and the two Piravend figures are fascinating on many levels. Not only are they extremely elegant, but they are also shrouded in mystery – we can only guess what they were for – and, of course, carry the prestigious association with André Derain."

LES ENLUMINURES, Stand B1 at Masterpiece London 2018

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Heart pendant, Spain or Italy, c. 1600. Gold, enamel, glass ; weight 17.2 grams; dimensions 45 × 31.4 × 13.8 mm. Courtesy Les Enleminures

With its wonderful openwork structure covered with enamel flowers, strapwork, and “gems,” the magnificent heart captures the gaze and its shape moves effortlessly between secular and religious meanings — human or divine love, romantic or religious devotion.

Double-sided heart-shaped pendant in gold and enamel openwork. A blue enameled frame surrounds an oval capsule with convex glass and translucent red and opaque white cartouche with wings. The bulbous outer border consists of opaque blue strapwork alternating with opaque white enameled daisy-like flowers and red globules. Baluster-shaped base with red and blue enamel for the gold pendant loop.

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Magic Belt, Spain, Castile, 17th century, textile late 13th century, coins and medals 10th-19th century. Brocaded velvet, gold thread, silver, enamel, jet, rock crystal and castaña de Indias, 73.5 × 30-50 cm (28.9 x 1.1-1.9 in.)Courtesy Les Enleminures

The oldest of the very few surviving examples, this Spanish “magic belt” includes elements from the tenth to the seventeenth centuries: Islamic textile, Arab coins, rosary beads, a rock crystal skull, a jet amulet, and a type of horse chestnut make up the belt, which would have been worn by a child to protect him or her from evil spirits.

The belt is formed of a brocaded red velvet textile with discs of gold thread. Twenty-eight silver coins are sewn onto the belt (two are eighteenth-century Moroccan, the rest from al-Andalus, a single coin dating from the tenth century and the others to the fourteenth century, and with a single nineteenth-century silver medal). Three pendants are suspended from the belt and attached to parts of a rosary made of silver links, the mounts with black and white enamel and round jet beads. The jet beads are carved with stylized foliage and memento mori, with the head of Christ or the Virgin Mary and a skull. Three attached pendants are a tropical nut (castaña de Indias) with silver figa pendants and a single Virgin Mary pendant, a carved rock crystal skull, and an ornate fist with figa carved in jet. The belt appears to have been further embellished with hooked clasps. The thread used to secure some of these embellishments suggests that the belt was repaired towards the end of the eighteenth or the beginning of the nineteenth century.

Provenance: Originally gifted to the Virgin in the Church of Herrera de Pisuerga (Palencia), 1945; Subastas Segre, Madrid, 2005, no. 4; Private collection, Europe. 

Memento mori skull pendant, Germany, 17th century

Memento mori skull pendant, Germany, 17th century. Fire-gilded copper, glass ; weight 42 grams; dimensions 38 × 23 × 53 mm (opened flat). Courtesy Les Enleminures

This hinged skull, monumental in spite of its small scale, has movable jaws and opens with a tiny screw to reveal hidden compartments of relics, all of sainted emperors, suggesting that it must have belonged to a member of the court.

A skull made of fire-gilded copper with hinged, screw-mounted lower jaw, which opens and closes. On the skullcap is a pendant loop with a floral ornament that also functions as a screw and lock; with the screw removed, the pendant opens to reveal two halves, one side with three compartments that contain bone relics under glass with inscriptions naming the saints engraved on a golden frame: CARL.M/LADL.K./OSWD.K (Charlemagne, king of the Franks and Holy Roman Emperor; St. Ladislaus I, king of Hungary; and St. Oswald, king of Northumbria). The other side contains a miniature solar monstrance with fine wires.

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Vante De Gabriello Di Vante Attavanti (Attavante) (Active in Florence, born 1452, died 1520-1525), Saints Sergius And Bacchus, Initial ‘A’ from A Choir Book (150 X 127/130 Mm.), Italy, Florence, C. 1475-1485. Courtesy Les Enleminures

This brightly colored initial ‘A’ from a Choir Book depicts the martyr saints Sergius and Bacchus, both Roman soldiers, in fantastic Renaissance armor. This miniature is attributed to Attavante, noted by Giorgio Vasari as the most “celebrated and famous of miniaturists.”

This brightly colored initial ‘A’ from a Choir Book depicts the martyr saints Sergius and Bacchus, both Roman soldiers, in fantastic Renaissance armor. They stand in a landscape holding weapons and wearing brightly contrasting colors with Burgonet-style helmets. The historiated initial is surrounded with flowers and decorated with a red gemstone at top. Under a faint yellow wash to the left of both figures is a partially legible inscription: “Cu(m) fi…,” perhaps “Cum figura…” (with figure…), a rare example of instructions to the illuminator. This miniature is attributed to Attavante, noted by Giorgio Vasari as the most “celebrated and famous of miniaturists.” Attavante is known primarily through a series of luxurious Missals and Breviaries illuminated for important patrons, including Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary. Relatively early in his career, around 1473, Attavante collaborated with Ghirlandaio on a Choir Book, the miniatures of which are now in an album in Rome (BAV, Cod. Ross. 1192). Here Roman soldiers in armor and helmets appear in the background of a miniature with the Finding of the True Cross (f. 22r), comparable to the present miniature. Also comparable are the miniatures attributed to Attavante in the Bible of Federico Montefeltro (Rome, BAV, Cod. Urb. Lat. 1-2), dated between 1476 and 1478, and miniatures in the Missal of Thomas James, illuminated around 1483 (Lyon, BM, MS 5123). The initial ‘A’ opens the Feast of Saints Sergius and Bacchus (7 October), probably for the antiphon “A[bsterget deus].” The reverse is written with fragments of two lines of music notation on four-line staves in red, with text in brown ink: “…[n]ostris [concedat v]obis salutem…,” from the antiphon Adaperiat dominus cor vestrum, for Saturdays preceding the first Sunday of October. The pigments and parchment are in good condition, with some rubbing to the gold leaf and some isolated smudges.

ProvenancePaul Durrieu (1855-1925), Paris; acquired privately, 2017.

Literature: Published in Sandra Hindman, Medieval & Renaissance Miniature Painting, 1988, cat. 18; Friedrich G. Zeileis, “Più ridon le carte”: Buchmalerei aus Mittelalter und Renaissance, Katalog einer Privatsammlung, 2001, vol. 1, no. 112.

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Hours of Philippote de Nanterre (Use of Amiens), France, Amiens circa 1420s. Illuminated manuscript on parchment, in Latin and French, with 27 miniatures by the Master of Raoul d’Ailly and a collaborator, 18.1 x 13.5 cm (7.1 x 5.3 in.)Courtesy Les Enleminures

Monumental work by a rare Amiens painter directly influenced by Flemish primitives.

Hours of Philippote de Nanterre (Use of Amiens) Illuminated manuscript, on parchment, in Latin and French 27 miniatures by the Master of Raoul d’Ailly and a collaborator France, Amiens, c. 1420s This manuscript comes from the fertile borderland between France and Flanders during a crucial moment of artistic creativity in Amiens. The haunting style of this painter merges Parisian courtly elegance with the northern realism of the Flemish primitives to pioneer a new form of pictorial representation. Our artist is known in very few Books of Hours. Familiar with Flemish panel painters such as the Master of Flémalle and Roger van der Weyden, he uses green shadows and imposing figures set either in homey interiors or realistic landscapes. 208 folios, mostly in gatherings of 8( i12, ii6-1, iii6, iv-v8, vi-vii8-1, viii8, ix8-1, x-xi8, xii10, xiii8-1, xv-xviii8, xix4, xx8, xxi4, xxii-xxvi8, xxvii6, xxviii5-2), lacking one leaf after the calendar and 4 others, missing 5 miniatures, written in a gothic book hand in brown ink on 17 long lines (justification 95 x 65 mm.), no ruling visible, rubrics in red, 1-line initials in burnished gold leaf with red and blue calligraphic penwork, line endings rectangular, half rose and half blue with white filigree designs, burnished gold circles at either end of the design, illuminated 3-to 7-line initials, numerous full borders of acanthus, flowers, and birds on the pages with full-page illumination, and partial borders with small leaves and flowers on the text pages, with 27 full-page illuminations all in arched compartments, in excellent condition. Seventeenth-century French red morocco binding, gold filet tooling, gilt edges. Dimensions 181 x 135 mm. TEXT ff. 1-12v, Calendar for Amiens with St. Firmin, the first bishop of Amiens, 13 January and 25 September, in gold; St. Firmin, third bishop of Amiens, 1 September; St. Honore, bishop of Amiens, 16 May; and three martyrs of Amiens, Saints Fuscian, Gentian, and Victorius, 11 December. ff. 13-16v, Gospel Sequences ff. 17-23v, Apostle’s Creed; ff. 24-39, Hours of the Virgin (incomplete), with f. 24, Matins; f. 46, Lauds; f. 54, Prime; f. 58v, Terce; f. 62, Sext; f. 65, None; f. 68v, Vespers; f. 75, Compline; ff. 79v-94v, Seven Penitential Psalms; ff. 95-100v, Short Hours of the Cross; ff. 101-106v, Hours of the Holy Spirit; ff. 106-117v, Prayers to the Virgin, including “Obsecro te” and “O Intemerata”; ff. 118-123, Hours of the Holy Sacrament; ff. 123-127v, Suffrages; ff. 127v-135v, Prayers in French; ff. 136-145v, Prayer of Theophilus; ff. 146-154, Fifteen Joys of the Virgin; ff. 151-153v, Seven Requests of Our Lord; ff. 154-158, Suffrages to Saints; ff. 159-202, Office of the Dead; ff. 202v-204, Prayers in French; ff. 204v-207, Suffrages for Quentin, John the Baptist, and Catherine. ILLUSTRATION f. 17, Peter; f. 17v, Andrew; f. 18, James the Great; f. 18v, John the Evangelist; f. 19, Thomas; f. 19v, James the Less; f. 20, Philip; f. 20v, Bartholomew; f. 21, Matthew; f. 21v, Simon; f. 22, Jude; f. 22v, Mathias f. 24, Annunciation (Hand B); f. 58v, Annunciation to the Shepherds; f. 65, Presentation in the Temple; f. 68v, Flight into Egypt (Hand B); f. 75, Coronation of the Virgin; f. 79v, David Praying in a Landscape (Hand B); f. 101, Pentecost; f. 118, Priest Celebrating Mass; f. 136, Virgin Weaving (Hand B); f. 146, Woman (Philippote of Nanterre) kneeling before the Virgin; f. 151, Last Judgment; f. 154, Saint John the Baptist; f. 155, Saint James the Great (Hand B); f. 156, Saint Nicolas; f. 159, Funeral Service. The deluxe Hours of Philippote de Nanterre is a key work in the oeuvre of the Master of Raoul d’Ailly in Amiens. The artist is named after the Hours of Raoul d’Ailly (Private Collection, United States; for which see London, Sotheby’s 11 July 1978, lot 48), a manuscript for which he painted all forty-seven of its miniatures. Few works by the artist are known. In addition to the d’Ailly Hours, one of the most important is the Hours of Jacques de Châtillon (now in the BnF, MS n. a. lat. 3231); twenty-seven of its fifty-four paintings are by the Master of Raoul d’Ailly. In every aspect of its text, decoration, and illumination, the Philippote de Nanterre Hours is closely tied to the d’Ailly workshop. A small group of other works have been gathered together on which the artist occasionally collaborated with other Parisian-trained illuminators in Amiens between c. 1420 and c. 1450. Let us set the stage for this artist’s important career. Netherlandish artists poured into Paris at the beginning of the fifteenth century (the Limbourg Brothers, Jean Malouel, perhaps the Boucicaut Master himself). Patronized by some of the leading bibliophiles of the day, including Jean Duke of Berry, these artists created a distinctive style, unifying the humble “realism” of their origins with the elegant courtly manner they found in vogue in the Paris courts. The glory of this “golden age” of book illumination effectively ended with the Battle of Agincourt (1415) and the subsequent occupation of Paris by the English with an English regent John Duke of Bedford on the throne in 1422 after the death of the Valois King Charles VI. The successor to the Boucicaut Master known as the Bedford Master (named for his masterpieces for the English regent) represents the last flowering of this style. Seeking new patronage, Parisian-trained artists thus went elsewhere. Their exit from the French capital accounts for the emergence of many important and creative provincial schools of illumination. Amiens is one such center. In Amiens by the beginning of the 1420s, the Master of Raoul d’Ailly cultivated the patronage of leading figures from noble families: Jacques II de Châtillon was a count of Champagne; Raoul d’Ailly was a vidame or vice-lord (a feudal officer); and the Philippote de Nanterre was the wife of the Seigneur of Roquoncourt, Thierry de la Cloche, both high-ranking members of Amiens society. These three core manuscripts were all made to order and reflect many personal preferences of their patrons. Of the three manuscripts, only the Châtillon Hours is in the public domain and only since 2001, which partly accounts for the fact that the Master of Raoul d’Ailly has not received the attention his art merits. The unique series of the saints, represented in an imposing, monumental style and illustrating Apostles Creed in the Philippote Hours, find their counterparts in the twenty-seven standing figures of the saints illustrating the Suffrages of the Châtillon Hours attributed to the Master of Raoul d’Ailly. The artist’s haunting style is his use of green paint for the modelling, massive figures, and settings of homey interiors or realistic landscapes. Traces of influence of the Bedford Master are found in the artist’s style, and S. Nash suspects the artist was locally trained in Amiens by a member of the Bedford Master’s workshop. More remarkable, however, is the artist’s knowledge and assimilation of Flemish painting. S. Nash has shown that his work includes a lost copy of a painting by the Master of Flemalle (Robert Campin) and moreover, that the illuminator must have personally seen the painting, because he imitates qualities of its painted surface, as well as its composition. She even suggests that the artist owned a work by Campin. Familiarity also with the work of Roger van der Weyden characterizes the artist’s “northern” style. Chronicling the importance of the acquisition of the Châtillon Hours in 2001 by the BnF, François Avril wrote: “Ce manuscrit est un document important pour l'histoire de l’art au XVe siècle. Il témoigne de l’affirmation d’un nouveau centre de production de manuscrits en France. Après la bataille d’Azincourt en 1415, les Anglais s’installent à Paris. Les enlumineurs vont chercher fortune dans d’autres villes. C’est ainsi qu’Amiens devient un centre très actif durant les années 1430-1450. Il témoigne de la confluence du réalisme flamand et du style courtois encore en vogue à Paris. Et, plus largement, du dialogue établi à cette époque entre les artistes du Sud et ceux du Nord, qui a fait évoluer la représentation picturale.” (Chroniques BnF, December 2001). [This manuscript is an important document for the history of art of the fifteenth century. It witnesses the emergence of a new center of manuscript production in France. After the Battle of Agincourt in 1415, the English were installed in Paris. Parisian illuminators went to seek their fortune in other towns. Amiens thus became a very active center during the years 1430-1450. It witnesses the confluence of Flemish realism and the courtly style in vogue in Paris. And, more importantly it witnesses the dialogue established during this period between artists of the South and those of the North, who together contributed to the evolution of pictorial representation]. Like the lavish Châtillon Hours, the Philippote Hours shows collaboration between a native Amienois artist and a Parisian-trained immigrant. The artist responsible for the miniatures of the Apostles, and the Suffrage miniature of St. James (Hand A), which are of very high quality, shares the d’Ailly Master’s predilection for vibrant colors, expressive faces, and the decorative use of drapery. Collaborating with this artist is Hand B, a Parisian-style painter, responsible for the Annunciation, the Presentation, the Virgin Weaving, and the Suffrages except St. James, etc. His style is related to that of the Master of Fitzwilliam 65, who was already working in Amiens in the 1420s (see S. Nash, no. 8, p. 285ff.). The dress of Philippote, kneeling before the Virgin and Child on f. 186, dates later, perhaps as late as 1450. Closer examination of this folio, however, shows that her costume has been revamped to reflect a more up-to-date style with narrow sleeves and bodice, a repainting that must date during Philippote’s lifetime since the arms are original and show no evidence of overpainting. This new observation by Susie Nash helps place the Hours of Philippote of Nanterre firmly in the early 1420s. The Philippote Hours thus emerges as one of the earliest works of the Master of Raoul d’Ailly and one of his collaborators. It confirms the presence already at this date of immigrant Parisian artists in Amiens, and it reveals the indigenous roots of the powerful style of the Master of Raoul d’Ailly. The Master of Raoul d’Ailly was to become a major force in Amiens painting of the second quarter of the fifteenth century, contributing to the creation of pioneering forms of pictorial representation.

Provenance: Philippote de Nanterre and her husband, Thierry de la Cloche (the Seigneur of Roquoncourt), Amiens, France; François César Le Teller, Marquis of Courtanvaux (1712-1781), Paris, France; Paul-Louis Weiller (1883-993), Paris, France; James and Elizabeth Ferrell, USA

LES ENLUMINURES, Stand B1 at Masterpiece London 2018 (28 June - 04 July 2018). 

HANCOCKS, Stand B4 at at Masterpiece London 2018

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William Ruser, Diamond, ruby and platinum 'Orchestra' bracelet, attributed to Ruser, circa 1940. Courtesy Hancocks.

Bracelet designed as a row of eight orchestral musicians plus a conductor in the centre, the figures all set with a round cabochon star ruby forming the body with diamond set head, arms and legs and feet accented with black onyx, each musician plays a different instrument including timpani, cello, grand piano and harp and is joined by baguette diamond-set links.

Provenance: Previously in the personal jewellery collection of Shirley Temple Black.

Literature: Accompanied by a Ruser Jewels insurance valuation dated 1958 signed by William Ruser.

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 Egyptian Revival Gold Scarab and Multi Gem Bead Necklace by Marcus & Co., c.1905Courtesy Hancocks.

Necklace centred on a hammered gold scarab with enamelled hieroglyphics to the reverse and with outspread wings in green plique-a-jour enamel beneath a glowing orange carnelian sun motif, suspended from a swagged necklace of nephrite jade, lapis lazuli and coral beads interspersed with further gold scarabs all with enamelled hieroglyphics to the reverse and a similar concealed tongue and box clasp.

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Diamond pendant by Black, Starr & Frost, c.1910, set with a stunning old-cut pear-shaped diamond weighing 5.20cts and of D colour and VVS2 clarityCourtesy Hancocks.

This pendant showcases an exceptional old-cut pear-shape diamond weighing 5.20cts and of D colour and VVS2 clarity with graceful proportions and a wonderful limpid quality and bright lively appearance, in a beautifully simple and elegant platinum scalloped mount with diamond set bale, suspended from a lovely antique seed pearl and platinum chain by Tiffany & Co.

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Amy Burton (London, 1981). The 'Cassiopeia' diamond ring, from the Unum collection by Amy Burton, London, 2017. Diamond, central diamond 4.07ct E vs2 and platinum. Central diamond 10.7 x 8.8 x 5.72 mm (0.7 x 0.3 x 0.2 in.). London Assay and Makers marks.

The ring is centred upon an exquisite old emerald cut diamond with unusually steep cut-corners weighing 4.07 carats, rub over set within an openwork geometric surround of multi-triangular design and bombé shape set throughout with single-cut diamonds to an angular concave shank, all in fine handcrafted platinum.

HANCOCKS, Stand B4 at at Masterpiece London 2018 (28 June - 04 July 2018)

A large blue and white 'Dragon' bowl, Ming dynasty, Jiajing mark and period (1522-1566)

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A large blue and white 'Dragon' bowl, Ming dynasty, Jiajing mark and period (1522-1566)

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Lot 3161.  A large blue and white 'Dragon' bowl, Ming dynasty, Jiajing mark and period (1522-1566); 29.8 cm., 11 3/4 in. Estimate 300,000-400,000 HKD (29,357 — 39,143 EUR). Lot sold 596,000 HKD (58,323 EUR). Photo Sotheby's.

well potted with deep rounded sides and everted rim raised on a slightly tapered foot, the interior centred with an en face five-clawed dragon leaping amidst lotus scrolls within double circles, the exterior similarly decorated with a pair of sinuous dragons amongst a lotus scroll, all brilliantly painted in vivid tones of cobalt blue above a band of upright lappets circling the foot, the base inscribed with a six-character reign mark in underglaze blue.

Sotheby's. Fine Chinese Ceramics & Works of Art. Hong Kong | 04 avr. 2012 

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