A rare Imperial embroidered 'Five Symbol' gauze dragon robe , Qing Dynasty, 19th century. Photo Sotheby's
finely worked in counted stitch and couched gold-wrapped threads with nine five-clawed dragons, the faces and claws of the front-facing dragons incorporating silver-wrapped threads, the symbols for the sun and moon placed on the shoulders, the constellation of Ursa Major split into two groups on the back, the ax-head and fu-symbol flanking the main dragon on the front, all surrounded by clouds and auspicious emblems, enclosed by terrestrial diagrams and lishui borders at the hem and sleeves, the design repeated on the collarband and horsehoof cuffs. Length 52 3/4 in., 134 cm, Width 70 in., 177.8 cm. Estimation 40,000 — 60,000 USD
Provenance: Acquired in Beijing in the late 1990s.
A similar turquoise ground five symbol robe is illustrated in Gary Dickson and Linda Wrigglesworth, Imperial Wardrobe, Berkeley, 2000, pl. 76, where the authors surmise that such a robe was probably made for use by an imperial consort. According to Qing court regulations, the use of this color was restricted to women only and the use of the Twelve Imperial Symbols on clothing was restricted to the Emperor, however, the emperor could confer the right to use all or any of the twelve symbols as a mark of favor.
The five symbols on the present lot are the sun, moon and stars, which represent the universe, the fu which represents the power to judge, and the ax-head which represents the power to punish.
The present lot is in the style of a man's robe, but as noted, this rare turquoise color was restricted to women. It is therefore likely that the robe was modified, or was originally a bolt of yardage that was later constructed into a man's robe.
Sotheby's. FINE CHINESE CERAMICS & WORKS OF ART. 18 MARS 2014 - 19 MARS 2014. NEW YORK - www.sothebys.com