A rare Imperial lady's informal gauze robe, Qing Dynasty, Guangxu Period. Photo Sotheby's
finely embroidered with sprigs of large peonies interspersed with couched wanshou medallions, stylized shou characters and flying phoenix in gold-wrapped threads, the black collar and sleeve bands with a similar motif further edged with couched stylized shou characters and florets, the sleeves with an additional black brocade band, framed. Length 52 1/4 in., 132.6 cm; Width 51 1/2 in., 130.7 cm. Estimation 10,000 — 15,000 USD
Provenance: Sotheby's New York, 9th and 10th October 1987, lot 87.
This robe was most likely made for the Empress Dowager Cixi. In her later years, wanshou medallions and shou characters, which represented longevity, were a favored motif. Numerous photographs of her wearing such robes exist. The wanshou medallions in the present lot are extremely well-done. Not only do the ends of each line form ruyi-heads, but the medallions also incorporate bats, which symbolize blessings and chimes which symbolize celebration.
With its main decoration of phoenix, which symbolized the empress, and peonies symbolizing wealth and nobility, it is hard to imagine that the present lot would have been worn by anyone else besides Cixi. A drawing of a similar robe, described as an empress' ordinary dress, is illustrated in Zhou Xun and Gao Chunming, 5000 Years of Chinese Costumes, Hong Kong, 1988, fig. 304, across from a photograph of Cixi. An actual robe with similar phoenix and peony design was sold in these rooms, 12th October 1984, lot 160. Another robe possibly made for Cixi, with similar brocade edging, also sold in these rooms, 16th March 1984, lot 63.
Sotheby's. FINE CHINESE CERAMICS & WORKS OF ART. 18 MARS 2014 - 19 MARS 2014. NEW YORK - www.sothebys.com