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Robe Dragon en gaze de soie, Chine, Fin XIXème-début XXème siècle

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Robe Dragon en gaze de soie, Chine, Fin XIXème-début XXème siècle

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Robe Dragon en gaze de soie, Chine, Fin XIXème-début XXème siècleEstimation : 800 € / 1 200 €. Photo Aguttes

brodée de fils d'or et polychrome de dragons sur fond de nuages. La base à motifs de pics sacrés et de vaguelettes (quelques usures) . H: 126 cm

AGUTTES, Arts d'Asie, Archéologie (Lyon). le 11 Juin 2015 à 14h00. Tel: 04 37 24 24 24.


Vietnam, Table de lettré, fin du 19ème-début du 20ème siècle

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Vietnam, Table de lettré, fin du 19ème-début du 20ème siècle

Vietnam, Table de lettré, fin du 19ème-début du 20ème siècleEstimation : 300 € / 400 €. Photo Aguttes

de forme rectangulaire reposant sur quatre pieds réunis par une entretoise en bois incrusté de nacre à motifs d’objets précieux et objets bouddhiques, fleurs et papillons. La ceinture sculptée de dragons sur fond de nuages. Long. : 35.5 cm

AGUTTES, Art d’Asie (Drouot), le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h – Tel. 01 47 45 55 55.

Vietnam, Pipe à opium en os, vers 1930

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Vietnam, Pipe à opium en os, vers 1930

Vietnam, Pipe à opium en os, vers 1930. Estimation : 100 € / 200 €. Photo Aguttes

sculpté de chimères parmis les nuages. le fourneau en cuivre argenté. Long. : 53.5 cm

AGUTTES, Art d’Asie (Drouot), le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h – Tel. 01 47 45 55 55.

Vietnam, Deux bracelets en argent et osier à motifs floraux, Début du 20ème siècle

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Vietnam, Deux bracelets en argent et osier à motifs floraux, Début du 20ème siècle

Vietnam, Deux bracelets  en argent et osier à motifs floraux,  Début du 20ème siècleEstimation : 80 € / 100 €. Photo Aguttes

AGUTTES, Art d’Asie (Drouot), le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h – Tel. 01 47 45 55 55.

Statue de Guanyin en bois laqué or, Vietnam, XIXe siècle

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Statue de Guanyin en bois laqué or, Vietnam, XIXe siècle. Estimation : 300 € / 400 €. Photo NUMPHIL

debout sur un socle en forme de lotus, tenant dans sa main droite le pan de sa robe. (Fentes). H. 83 cm.

NUMPHIL, Objets d’Art et de Collection, Chine et Extrême Orient, le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h

Jarre de forme "guan" en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Wanli (1573 - 1620)

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Jarre de forme guan en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Wanli

 

Jarre de forme "guan" en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Wanli (1573 - 1620)Estimation : 5 000 € / 6 000 €. Photo NUMPHIL

de cerisiers en fleurs, pins et bambous, l'épaulement orné d'une frise de ruyi décorée de pivoiens et rinceaux, le col orné de grues aux ailes déployées. La partie inférieure ornée d'une frise de pétales stylisées. (Fêlures et restaurations au bord). H. 33 cm.

NUMPHIL, Objets d’Art et de Collection, Chine et Extrême Orient, le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h

Vase de forme rouleau en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Kangxi (1662 - 1722)

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Vase de forme rouleau en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Kangxi (1662 - 1722)

Vase de forme rouleau en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Kangxi (1662 - 1722)Estimation : 1 600 € / 2 000 €. Photo NUMPHIL

d'oiseaux posés et insectes près de rochers percés et fleuris de pivoines et bambous sur la partie supérieure, surmontant une frise de pivoines, lotus et pruniers en fleurs. La partie inférieure ornée d'une frise de ruyi et comportant des pivoines stylisées dans leur feuillage. (Fêlure, bord cerclé de métal). H. 43,5 cm

NUMPHIL, Objets d’Art et de Collection, Chine et Extrême Orient, le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h

Potiche couverte en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Kangxi (1662 - 1722)

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Potiche couverte en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Kangxi (1662 - 1722)

Potiche couverte en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Epoque Kangxi (1662 - 1722). Estimation : 5 000 € / 6 000 €. Photo NUMPHIL

de chrysanthèmes stylisés dans leur feuillage, le bord orné d'une frise de pétales. (Etoiles à l'intérieur, éclats au bord et au couvercle). H. 52 cm.

NUMPHIL, Objets d’Art et de Collection, Chine et Extrême Orient, le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h


Vase de forme balustre à col retréci et étroit en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, XIXe siècle

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Vase de forme balustre à col retréci et étroit en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, XIXe siècle

Vase de forme balustre à col retréci et étroit en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, XIXe siècleEstimation : 50 000 € / 70 000 €. Photo NUMPHIL

de pivoines stylisées parmi leur feuillage, l'épaulement orné d'une frise de vagues écumantes, le col de deux registres de lotus stylisés. Le bord supérieur décorée d'une frise de vagues, deux anses de forme tubulaire. au revers de la base, la marque apocryphe de Qianlong à six caractères en zhuansh. h. 51 cm.

NUMPHIL, Objets d’Art et de Collection, Chine et Extrême Orient, le 12 Juin 2015 à 14h

Important jewels june 16 at Christie’s New York highlighted by the magnificent jewels of Margaret Adderley Kelly

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NEW YORK – Following on the heels of Christie's blockbuster $118 million jewelry auction in Hong Kong earlier this week and establishing a new record for the most valuable jewelry auction ever held in Asia, Christie's is pleased to announce highlights of its upcoming sale of Important Jewels on June 16 in New York. This annual pre-summer event caps the spring season of Christie’s worldwide jewelry auctions and features over 200 lots, including a diverse array of colored and colorless diamonds, rare gemstones, and signed designer jewels. Estimates range from $8,000 up to $5 million, and the total sale is expected to achieve $18 million.

From modest beginnings in 1946 in Detroit, Michigan, Mrs. Margaret Adderley Kelly(pictured left), her husband, the late William R. Kelly and their son, Mr. Terence E. Adderley, shaped Kelly Services, Inc. into a Fortune 500 company that now employs over 550,000 people globally. The iconic “Kelly Girl” became a household name by 1957, synonymous with high-quality temporary employees. Philanthropy was a cornerstone of her life and many organizations benefitted from her immense generosity. In addition, jewels and fine gemstones were one of Mrs. Kelly’s greatest passions that she collected with the discerning eye of a great connoisseur. The breadth of the collection was a testament to her love for the exceptional, rare, and beautiful. On June 16, Christie’s is proud to offer The Magnificent Jewels of Margaret Adderley Kelly, highlights of which include an Art Deco diamond pendant necklace suspending a D-color, Internally Flawless diamond of 16.24 carats and The Kelly Sapphire: a Kashmir sapphire of 21.71 carats, by Cartier

Diamond-Pendant-Necklace-922x1200

An Art Deco diamond pendant necklace suspending a 16.24-carat pear-shaped D-color IF Type IIa diamond – from the collection of Margaret Adderley KellyEstimate $1,600,000 – $2,000,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Suspending a detachable pear-shaped diamond, weighing approximately 16.24 carats, from a single-cut diamond line, to the old-mine cut diamond neckchain, mounted in platinum, circa 1920,16 3/4 ins.,

With report 5171120299 dated 24 April 2015 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is D color, Internally Flawless clarity

Accompanied by a supplemental letter from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond has been determined to be a Type IIa diamond. Type IIa diamonds are the most chemically pure type of diamond and often have exceptional optical transparency. Type IIa diamonds were first identified as originating from India (particularly from the Golconda region) but have since been recovered in all major diamond-producing regions of the world. Among famous gem diamonds, the 530.20 carat Cullinan I and the 105.60 carat Koh-i-noor, are examples of Type IIa

Kelly-Sapphire

The Kelly Sapphire – a 21.71-carat cushion-cut Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, by Cartier – from the collection of Margaret Adderley KellyEstimate $1,500,000 – $2,000,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Set with a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 21.71 carats, flanked on either side by a trapeze-shaped diamond, to the square-cut diamond hoop, mounted in platinum, ring size 6 1/2. Signed Cartier

With report CS 67323 dated 13 April 2015 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of this sapphire would be classified as Classic Kashmir. Heat enhancement: None;accompanied by a supplemental appendix attesting to the rarity of the Kelly Sapphire 

Accompanied by a JewelFolio from the American Gemological Laboratories 

With report 15010221 dated 20 April 2015 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that gemmological testing revealed characteristics consistent with those of sapphires originating from Kashmir. No indications of heating; accompanied by a supplemental appendix attesting to the rarity of the sapphire. 

DIAMOND AND GEMSTONES HIGHLIGHTS

In keeping with Christie's strong track record of presenting the most exceptional colored and colorless diamonds and precious gemstones for sale, the top lot of the June 16 auction is an impressive cushion-cut K-color diamond of 80.73 carats. 

A 80

An impressive 80.73-carat cushion-cut K color diamond ringEstimate $3,000,000 – $5,000,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Set with a cushion-cut diamond, weighing approximately 80.73 carats, mounted in platinum

With report 1162934289 dated 9 February 2015 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is K color, VS2 clarity, with excellent polish and excellent symmetry

Additional highlights in the sale include a number of impressive diamonds and gemstones: 

The Majestic Blue – a 9

The Majestic Blue – A fine 9.97-carat cushion-cut Kashmir sapphire and diamond ringEstimate $950,000 – $1,250,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Set with a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 9.97 carats, to the circular-cut diamond shoulders, mounted in platinum

With report CS 67160 dated 24 April 2015 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of this sapphire would be classified as Kashmir. No gemological evidence of heat; accompanied by a supplemental appendix attesting to the rarity of the sapphire, stating that the sapphire also possesses a high clarity and a very deep, richly saturated 'Royal Blue' color. In honor of this gem's rarity it has been named The Majestic Blue

With report 15045019 dated 6 May 2015 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that gemmological testing revealed characteristics consistent with those of sapphires originating from Kashmir. No indications of heating; accompanied by a supplemental appendix attesting to the rarity of the sapphire

A 28

A 28.02-carat cushion-cut Fancy Intense yellow diamond and diamond ringEstimate $700,000 – $900,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Set with a modified cushion-cut fancy intense yellow diamond, weighing approximately 28.02 carats, flanked on either side by a shield-shaped diamond, mounted in platinum and 18k gold

With report 2165883897 dated 16 December 2014 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is fancy intense yellow, natural color, VS2 clarity

A 25

A 25.82-carat cushion-cut K color diamond ring. Estimate $600,000 – $700,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Set with a a cushion-cut diamond, weighing approximately 25.82 carats, to the cushion-cut diamond hoop, mounted in platinum, ring size 6

With report 1172034472 dated 26 February 2015 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is K color, VS2 clarity, with excellent polish and excellent symmetry

SIGNED JEWELS

Signed creations by world-renowned design houses such as Cartier, Graff, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels continue to command strong prices at Christie’s jewelry auctions around the world. Each of these esteemed firms has their own signature style of design and craftsmanship, making their jewels unique and highly sought-after among collectors and connoisseurs – and also very likely to retain or increase in value over the long term.

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BAMIYAN.- This photo taken on June 7, 2015 shows the projected image of a Buddha statue in Bamiyan that had been destroyed by the Taliban in 2001. The initiative to visually restore the destroyed antiquities was dreamt up by Chinese couple Zhang Xinyu and Liang Hong, who are travelling through countries on the historic Silk Road route. AFP PHOTO / Kamran Shafayee

Sotheby's to present Napoleon's last gift to his son: A superb pair of child-size pistols

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Created by celebrated gunsmith Jean Lepage, the exquisitely wrought pistols, encrusted and inlaid with gold, are emblazoned with Napoleonic symbolism. Photo: Sotheby's.

LONDON.- In the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo, Sotheby’s will offer a superb pair of child-size pistols at the Treasures sale in London on 8 July 2015 (Wednesday). The pistols, which are dated 1814, are believed to be parting gifts from Napoleon I to his beloved three-year-old son, whom he had titled “King of Rome” at birth. Estimated at £800,000 – 1.2 million / HK$9.6 – 14.4 million, the pistols mark one of the most poignant moments in Napoleon I’s turbulent life – the last time he saw his son before his defeat in the battle and exile to Elba. 

An Important Imperial Gift 
Created by celebrated gunsmith Jean Lepage, the exquisitely wrought pistols, encrusted and inlaid with gold, are emblazoned with Napoleonic symbolism, such as the capitalised N and the Imperial eagle, marking them as an important Imperial gift. 

Impeccable Provenance 
During the Siege of Paris which followed Napoleon I’s fall, the pistols were acquired in 1816 by an ambitious English souvenir collector named William Bullock. Bullock was an entrepreneur who captivated Regency London with his epic exhibitions of Napoleonic memorabilia and natural history in his famous Egyptian Hall at 22 Piccadilly. This fashionable venue lured everyone from the Prince Regent, the Queen and visiting European royalty to Jane Austen, Lord Byron and Walter Scott. The pistols were then sold at his sale of the contents of Egyptian Hall in 1819, and were later in the collections of Anglo-American socialite Cora, Countess of Strafford, and the renowned antique firearms connoisseur William Keith Neal.

A Brief History of Napoleon 
Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821) conquered Europe to become 1st Emperor of the French. Born in Corsica, he rose through the ranks of the French army in the wake of the Revolution which had overthrown King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette, conquering Egypt by 1798, and launching a coup d’état in France in 1799, becoming first consul. By 1804 he had been proclaimed Emperor in a lavish ceremony at the cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris. Napoleon is today a polarising figure, a tyrant to some, but to others an enlightened reformer who swept aside feudal systems of law and government throughout Europe, replacing them with his Code Napoleon, which established the principles of meritocracy, justice and freedom of religion; he also abolished slavery. Napoleon’s forces swept Europe, defeating the Austrians at Marengo (1800) and Austerlitz (1805), and annexing Italy, Spain, Holland, Belgium and large swathes of modern day Germany. His downfall began with his disastrous conquest of Russia, which eventually led to retreat from Moscow and the invasion of France by his enemies, Britain, Austria and Prussia. Napoleon abdicated in April 1814, was forced into exile on the island of Elba, but returned triumphantly only to be decisively defeated at the Battle of Waterloo by the Duke of Wellington on 18 June 1815. He was exiled to the Atlantic island of St Helena, where he died in 1821. His defeat led to the ascendancy of Britain as the leading force in world affairs through the 19th century.

Vase de forme balustre à col ouvert en grès émaillé vert, Chine, Époque Han (206 av. JC - 220 ap. JC)

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Vase de forme balustre à col ouvert en grès émaillé vert, Chine, Époque Han (206 av

Vase de forme balustre à col ouvert en grès émaillé vert, Chine, Époque Han (206 av. JC - 220 ap. JC). Estimation : 1 500 € / 2 000 €.  Photo Piasa

 à décor en relief sur la panse d'une frise de chilong. H.36 cm (éclat et restauration sur le bord)

PIASA, Arts d'Asie, le 18 Juin 2015 à 10h00 

Pot couvert de forme balustre en porcelaine blanche décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Époque Ming (1368-1644)

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Pot couvert de forme balustre en porcelaine blanche décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Époque Ming (1368-1644)

Pot couvert de forme balustre en porcelaine blanche décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Époque Ming (1368-1644). Estimation : 1 500 € / 2 000 €.  Photo Piasa

de fleurs et fleurs de lotus. L'épaulement est orné de quatre petites anses en forme de tête de chimère. Le couvercle est surmonté d'une chimère assise. Monté en fontaine avec cerclage en cuivre pour l'Iran. H.33 cm (éclat)

PIASA, Arts d'Asie, le 18 Juin 2015 à 10h00 

Brûle-parfum tripode en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Période Transition, XVIIe siècle

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Brûle-parfum tripode en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Période Transition, XVIIe siècle

Brûle-parfum tripode en porcelaine décorée en bleu sous couverte, Chine, Période Transition, XVIIe siècle Estimation : 600 € / 800 €.  Photo Piasa

de deux immortels et un serviteur dans un paysage lacustre. Ø 16 cm, (Petites fêlures)

PIASA, Arts d'Asie, le 18 Juin 2015 à 10h00 


Paire de bols en porcelaine émaillée céladon, Chine, Époque Kangxi (1662-1722)

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Paire de bols en porcelaine émaillée céladon, Chine, Époque Kangxi (1662-1722)

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Paire de bols en porcelaine émaillée céladon, Chine, Époque Kangxi (1662-1722).  Estimation : 800 € / 1 000 €.  Photo Piasa

à décor gravé sous couverte de poissons et de lotus à l'intérieur et de canards à l'extérieur. Ø 19,6 cm, (Fêlure sur l'un et éclats sur l'autre)

PIASA, Arts d'Asie, le 18 Juin 2015 à 10h00 

Statuette de Laozi debout en ivoire à patine jaune, Chine, Époque Ming (1368-1644), XVIe siècle

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Statuette de Laozi debout en ivoire à patine jaune, Chine, Époque Ming (1368-1644), XVIe siècle

Statuette de Laozi debout en ivoire à patine jaune, Chine, Époque Ming (1368-1644), XVIe siècle. Estimation : 800 € / 1 000 €.  Photo Piasa

se tenant son chignon. H.13 cm, (Manque et restauration)

PIASA, Arts d'Asie, le 18 Juin 2015 à 10h00 

A colored diamond, diamond, emerald and enamel tiger and cub brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels.

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A colored diamond, diamond, emerald and enamel tiger and cub brooch, by Van Cleef & ArpelsEstimate $100,000 – $150,000. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015

Designed as a circular-cut yellow diamond tiger and circular-cut diamond cub, with black enamel stripes and emerald eyes, mounted in gold, with maker's mark. Signed V.C.A. for Van Cleef & Arpels N.Y. and France, no. 41443

Christie's. IMPORTANT JEWELS, 16 June 2015, New York, Rockefeller Plaza

 

Exhibition at Royal Ontario Museum tells dramatic story of an ancient civilization frozen in time

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Portrait of a Woman

Portrait of a Woman. Mosaic; limestone, MANN 124666© The Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Naples (SAHN)

TORONTO.- The Royal Ontario Museum hosts the Canadian premiere of Pompeii: In the Shadow of the Volcano from Saturday, June 13, 2015 to Sunday, January 3, 2016. On display in the Garfield Weston Exhibition Hall, the exhibition includes approximately 200 evocative objects that tell the dramatic story of Pompeii, an ancient Roman city captured in time by ash and debris that buried it during a volcanic eruption. Pompeii focuses on the people living in the city, revealing the fragility of life in the face of natural disaster. Objects, many seen for the first time in Toronto, are loaned by The Superintendence for Archaeological Heritage of Naples and The Archaeological Depositories of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Stabiae. 

Bracelet in the form of a snake

Bracelet in the form of a snake, 1st century BC-1st century AD. Gold© The Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Naples (SAHN)

Nearly 2000 years ago—in Year 79—Mount Vesuvius, a long dormant volcano in southern Italy, erupted with tremendous force. Within 24 hours, Pompeii vanished in a rain of ash, falling debris, mud, and poisonous gaseous blasts, remaining hidden for nearly 1700 years until archaeological excavations uncovered it nearly intact. With its eruption, the volcano transformed a relatively minor Roman city into one of the most famous sites in the world.  

Wall painting depicting the distribution of bread

Wall painting depicting the distribution of bread, 1st century BC - 1st century AD. Limestone© The Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Naples (SAHN)

"The ROM’s exhibition brings to Toronto a wide range of artifacts from Pompeii, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. It will provide visitors a glimpse into life in an ancient Roman society and the volcano that destroyed it. However, with natural disasters frequently occurring around the world, Pompeii also emphasizes history’s relevance to our lives today,” says Janet Carding, ROM Director and CEO. 

Girl fastening her peplos (Peplophoros)

Girl fastening her peplos (Peplophoros), 1st century BC - 1st century AD. Bronze© The Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Naples (SAHN)

Pompeii and its fate are explored through six distinct sections that examine the chronology of the disaster, from bustling city life to the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, as well as its devastating toll and aftermath 

Gladiator Helmet

Gladiator Helmet, Early 1st century. Bronze © The Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Naples (SAHN)

Exhibition highlights include a pair of life-sized marble portrait statues of a young man and woman and fine statues of Roman gods in marble and bronze. Gladiators’ equipment reveals a popular entertainment while tools and objects including coins and scales illuminate daily commercial life. Domestic scenes include lavishly decorated villas with large-scale wall paintings, mosaics, and elegant furnishings. Gardens embellished with stunning sculptures demonstrate Pompeians’ taste for luxury as do lavish silver dining ware and exquisite jewellery of gold and precious stones. Most powerful are dishes containing carbonized figs and olives—food about to be eaten at the moment disaster struck.  

Fish Mural

Fish Mural© The Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Naples (SAHN)

The exhibition’s central dramatic moment features a survivor’s eyewitness account—one of history’s first scientific observations of a volcanic eruption—by the Roman author Pliny the Younger. The devastating loss of life is illustrated with the poignant presence of casts of those who perished.  

Garden Fresco

Garden Fresco. Painted plaster, MANN 8760© The Superintendence for the Archaeological Heritage of Naples (SAHN).

Pompeii is curated by Paul Denis, Assistant Curator in the ROM’s World Cultures department, Dr. Kate Cooper, former Rebanks Fellow in Classical Archaeology; and Katherine Dunnell, a technician in the Museum’s Earth Sciences department. Lead curator Denis says, "Pompeii is among the world’s most remarkable archaeological sites. Ironically, while the city was destroyed by this eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the catastrophe preserved much of what made up life in Pompeii — providing an unprecedented look into an ancient civilization.”

bodies

Archaeologists have identified 1,150 bodies of those who remained in the city, either as skeletons or plaster casts.

dog

The plaster body casts are reconstructed from cavities left in the ash by people and animals that perished during the eruption. Their bodies eventually decayed, leaving behind a perfect mould with their imprint. The casts were created by pouring diluted plaster into these hollow spaces; after the ash was chipped off, faithful replicas of humans and animals were revealed.

Shoes and sacrifice: Exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum explores footwear fashion

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Chopines, about 1600 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

LONDON (AFP).- For centuries, women and sometimes men have squeezed their feet into tiny shoes or balanced on towering heels to feel sexy, empowered and to show their wealth and status. 

Now their sacrifice is being celebrated in a new exhibition, 'Shoes: Pleasure and Pain', which opens at the V&A museum in London on Saturday. 

From a 2,000-year-old pair of Egyptian gold sandals to child-like Chinese slippers for bound feet, to Christian Louboutin's red-soled stilettoes, the 250 exhibits reveal how fashionable shoes have always been more than footwear. 

wedding-paduka

Wedding toe-knob paduka. Silver and gold over wood, India, 1800s. V&A: LOAN: CALAM.2:1+2. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

"The exhibition is about the obsession of shoes. It's looking at the power of shoes, how they can tell about status and privilege," curator Helen Persson told AFP. 

Luxury shoes have long been the preserve of the rich and idle. Regardless of the cost, high heels, sumptuous fabrics and delicate designs have no place in the field or factory, or indeed in running for a bus. 

Where women today have Manolo Blahnik or Jimmy Choo, 19th-century Egyptians had 28.5-centimetre wooden bath clogs and 17th-century Venetian ladies had to balance on their maids to walk in towering "chopine" platforms.  

Pale-blue shoes

Pale-blue shoes, photographed on the mantelpiece in The Norfolk House Music Room, the British Galleries at the V&A, London, 2014; Silk satin with silver lace and braid, England, 1750s. V&A: T.70+A—1947; M.48+A—1962 (diamond and sapphire buckles). © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Advances in engineering have made many shoes more comfortable but also enabled designers to make them higher and more outlandish, exemplified by Noritaka Tatehana's gravity-defying heel-less shoes. 

"Even though they seem so extreme and not wearable, they were designed to be worn," said Persson of the exhibits, which are taken from the V&A's archives as well as loans from other museums and private collectors. 

"It's this intriguing thing -- we accept that shoes are pleasure, but also have a bit of pain. And we seem to have accepted that for 2,000 years." 

Chopines

Chopines, photographed in the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries at the V&A, London, 2014. Punched kid leather over carved pine, Venice, Italy, c.1600. V&A: T.48+A—1914.© Victoria and Albert Museum, London

No concern for normality 
The exhibition starts with the most iconic shoe of all, Cinderella's slipper. Made by Swarovski for the recent Disney movie, it is a testament to the power of footwear to change the wearer's life. 

Alongside it is a shoe owned by former England football captain David Beckham, a working-class boy turned global superstar, personalised with the name of his son Brooklyn. 

Shoes are also about fantasy. One section of the exhibition is dedicated to their role in seduction, from fluffy, kick-off mules to black leather lace-ups worn during the "porn-chic" trend in London in the 1890s.  

Coxton Shoe Co

Coxton Shoe Co. Ltd (active in early 20th century), Men’s shoes. Gilded and marbled leather, Northamptonshire, England, c.1925. V&A: T.52:1+2—1996. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Many of the exhibits were worn by celebrities, from Queen Victoria to Marilyn Monroe, or made by top designers, emphasising the role of shoes as an aspirational item. 

There are the golden "Angel wings" by Alexander McQueen worn by Lady Gaga, Vivienne Westwood's blue platforms from which Naomi Campbell toppled onto a Paris catwalk, and a version of the Duchess of Cambridge's nude courts. 

"The shoes here are saying, I am important, I belong to the highest societies, I have no concern for the normality of life," Persson said.  

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Caroline Groves (b.1959), ‘Parakeet’ shoes. Leather, silk satin, solid silver talons and heel tips, and feathers, England, 2014. Photography by Dan Lowe

There are shoes embellished with fur, feathers, gold plate and lavish embroidery, epitomising how footwear is often seen as "jewels for the feet". One 19th-century pair from India have a ruby, diamond, emerald and sapphire trim. 

Despite the title, the exhibition does not explore the pain or damage of wearing towering, tight heels -- instead, it offers a sumptuous display of craftmanship and an insight into a passion shared by the curator. 

"I do love the way they make me feel," said Persson, wearing a pretty pair of red heels.  

"Putting on a pair of high-heeled shoes, I do feel more confident -- my body changes, I do like that. Although I do really like it when I take them off as well." © 1994-2015 Agence France-Presse

Roger Vivier

Roger Vivier (1907—98) for Christian Dior (1905—57), Evening shoes. Beaded silk and leather, France, 1958—60. V&A: T.149+A—1974. Image © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Pairs of shoes for bound feet

Pairs of shoes for bound feet. Embroidered silk and cotton over wood, China, late 1800s. V&A: FE.89, 96, 87, 93, 97, 92, 90:1+2—2002.© Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Atalanta Weller

Atalanta Weller (b.1978),‘Scotty’ boots. Leather and polyurethane. Designed in England, made in Portugal, 2010. V&A: T.94:1+2—2011. Image © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

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